Hiking the Gold Trail: Outdoor Adventures in Ouro Preto's Colonial Mountains

When I first contemplated hiking Ouro Preto's historic trails, I underestimated the physical demands of this mountainous region. Sitting at approximately 1,150 meters (3,770 feet) above sea level, the city itself requires acclimatization, particularly for those of us with a few more years in our legs. The surrounding trails climb considerably higher, with some routes ascending another 500+ meters through terrain that alternates between dense Atlantic Forest remnants and exposed rocky paths.

I spent my first two days in town adjusting to the altitude while exploring the historic center—a practical approach that allowed me to appreciate the colonial architecture while giving my body time to adapt. This gradual introduction proved invaluable when tackling the more strenuous trails later in the week.

For equipment, I relied heavily on my trusty trekking poles which proved essential for navigating the often steep and sometimes slippery paths. The cork handles maintained their grip despite my sweaty palms in the Brazilian humidity, and the adjustable length feature was perfect for both ascents and descents.

The weather in Ouro Preto's fall season (March-May) brings cool mornings that warm to pleasant afternoons, with occasional afternoon showers. Layering is essential, as temperatures can vary significantly between shaded forest sections and exposed ridgelines. My typical hiking outfit consisted of moisture-wicking base layers, convertible hiking pants, and a light rain shell that packed down small enough to fit in my daypack's side pocket.

The centerpiece of any hiking adventure in the region is undoubtedly the Estrada Real (Royal Road), the historic route used to transport gold and diamonds from the mines of Minas Gerais to the ports of Rio de Janeiro during colonial times. While the complete trail network spans over 1,600 kilometers, the sections around Ouro Preto offer perfectly manageable day hikes that combine historical significance with natural beauty.

I set out early one morning with Marcos, a local guide whose family has lived in the region for generations. His knowledge of both the official paths and hidden shortcuts proved invaluable. We began our journey at the trailhead near Praça Tiradentes, Ouro Preto's main square, and headed east along what was once the primary artery of Brazil's economic lifeblood.

The trail alternates between well-preserved stone pathways—laid by slaves centuries ago—and sections reclaimed by nature where the path narrows to single-track through lush vegetation. Marcos pointed out subtle markings on stones that indicated official distance markers from the colonial era, some still bearing the faded coat of arms of the Portuguese crown.

About three hours into our hike, we reached a natural overlook where the valley opened before us. The vista was breathtaking—rolling mountains carpeted in green, with the occasional glint of a church spire in the distance. This spot, Marcos explained, was once a checkpoint where colonial authorities would inspect gold shipments for the royal fifth tax.

I captured the sweeping landscape with my mirrorless camera, which has become my faithful companion on these adventures. Its lightweight design makes it ideal for hiking, while the weather-sealing has protected it through countless tropical downpours. The electronic viewfinder proved particularly valuable in the harsh midday Brazilian sun, allowing me to compose shots that truly captured the dramatic landscape.

As we continued, the trail revealed remnants of mining operations—stone foundations, water channels, and the occasional rusted piece of equipment from later industrial efforts. These silent witnesses to history made the hike feel like an archaeological expedition as much as a nature walk.

While Ouro Preto's gold trail history is fascinating, I found myself equally drawn to the natural wonders of Itacolomi State Park, located just 8 kilometers from the city center. The park's name comes from the distinctive Itacolomi Peak, which resembles a 'stone boy' (the meaning of the indigenous Tupi word) and served as a navigation landmark for colonial explorers.

Accessing the park requires either a 4x4 vehicle or arranging transport through your accommodation. I opted for the latter, joining three fellow hikers from my pousada for the bumpy ride to the park entrance. Unlike the historical trails closer to town, Itacolomi offers a wilder experience with well-marked but more challenging paths through Atlantic Forest ecosystems.

The main trail to Itacolomi Peak is approximately 12 kilometers round trip with an elevation gain of about 700 meters—a full day's commitment for even experienced hikers. The path begins gently enough, winding through forest that harbors remarkable biodiversity. My companions and I spotted toucans, marmosets, and a bewildering array of butterflies that seemed to dance alongside us as we walked.

As we gained elevation, the forest gradually gave way to campos rupestres, high-altitude rocky grasslands dotted with unique plant species adapted to the harsh conditions. These open areas afforded spectacular views across the mountain range, with Ouro Preto appearing as a tiny collection of white buildings in the distant valley.

The final approach to the peak requires some scrambling over boulders—nothing technical, but certainly demanding careful footing. At 61, I've learned to respect my limitations while refusing to be defined by them. I took my time on this section, letting my younger companions surge ahead while I maintained a steady, deliberate pace.

Reaching the summit was worth every labored breath. At 1,772 meters (5,814 feet), Itacolomi Peak offers a 360-degree panorama that encompasses much of southern Minas Gerais. On clear days, they say you can see all the way to the neighboring state of Espírito Santo. We weren't quite so lucky with visibility, but the swirling clouds moving through the valleys below created an ethereal landscape that felt like something from another world.

For this challenging hike, my hiking boots proved their worth repeatedly. The waterproof Gore-Tex kept my feet dry through morning dew and afternoon showers, while the aggressive tread provided confidence on both muddy forest floors and slippery rock faces. After seven years and countless trails across multiple continents, these boots continue to offer the perfect balance of support and flexibility.

While researching this trip, I stumbled across mentions of Lavras Novas, a small district about 25 kilometers from Ouro Preto that promised a different kind of hiking experience. Once a quilombo (settlement founded by escaped enslaved people) and later a mining community, today this sleepy village serves as a gateway to some of the region's most spectacular waterfall hikes.

I arranged a day trip through my pousada, though public buses run the route a few times daily for the more budget-conscious traveler. The road to Lavras Novas winds through hills that gradually become more lush and verdant than the immediate surroundings of Ouro Preto, hinting at the water-rich environment ahead.

The village itself is charming in its simplicity—a collection of whitewashed buildings with colorful trim surrounding a small church plaza. After a quick café and pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese bread) at a local bakery, I met Paulo, my guide for the day's waterfall circuit.

"We have more than fifteen waterfalls within hiking distance," Paulo explained as we set out, "but today we will visit the three most beautiful ones that can be reached in a single day's hike."

Our first destination was Cachoeira do Fogão (Stove Waterfall), named for the curious rock formation that resembles an old wood-burning stove. The trail there was moderately challenging, cutting through dense vegetation before opening to reveal the 15-meter cascade tumbling into a perfect natural swimming pool. Despite the cool autumn air, several young Brazilians were enjoying the waters, their laughter echoing off the surrounding rock walls.

The path to the second waterfall, Cachoeira das Três Quedas (Three Falls), proved more demanding. The trail narrowed considerably, with sections requiring us to use tree roots as natural handholds. My hiking daypack proved its worth here, staying close to my body without shifting weight as I navigated the technical sections. Its multiple compartments kept my camera accessible while securing my water and snacks, and the integrated rain cover deployed quickly when we encountered a brief but intense afternoon shower.

Três Quedas revealed itself gradually—first the sound, then glimpses through the trees, and finally the full glory of three distinct cascades dropping into successive pools. Paulo explained that during the rainy season (November to February), the three separate streams merge into one thunderous waterfall, but I found the autumn flow perfectly captivating in its delicate division.

Our final destination, Cachoeira do Manso (Gentle Waterfall), belied its name with a 25-meter drop that created a constant mist, feeding the lush microclimate of ferns and bromeliads clinging to nearby rocks. Here we paused for a late lunch of packed sandwiches and fruit, the waterfall providing nature's soundtrack to our meal.

As an older traveler who has seen his fair share of natural wonders, I've become increasingly selective about what truly impresses me. The waterfall circuit of Lavras Novas easily earned its place among my memorable hiking experiences—not just for the beauty of the cascades themselves, but for the remarkably diverse ecosystems we traversed between them.

One of the great joys of physically demanding days on mountain trails is the guilt-free pleasure of indulging in hearty regional cuisine come evening. Ouro Preto, despite its relatively small size, offers a surprisingly sophisticated culinary scene that beautifully rewards tired hikers.

As a novelist who has spent decades crafting characters and plots, I've always been drawn to establishments with stories to tell. In Ouro Preto, restaurants are often housed in centuries-old buildings where the weight of history is as palpable as the aroma of simmering feijão tropeiro (a traditional bean, sausage, and manioc dish).

My favorite evening ritual became claiming a corner table at Restaurante Casa dos Contos, housed in a former gold taxation office dating back to 1782. The stone walls that once secured the colony's wealth now embrace diners exploring the flavors of Minas Gerais cuisine. After particularly challenging hikes, I found myself gravitating toward their signature dish, leitão à pururuca—roasted suckling pig with impossibly crispy skin that crackles between your teeth.

For more casual evenings, the boteco culture of Brazil provides perfect respite for weary legs. These neighborhood bars serve simple but delicious petiscos (Brazilian tapas) alongside ice-cold chopp (draft beer). Boteco do Geraldo became my regular haunt, where locals and visitors mingle freely. Their coxinha (chicken croquettes) paired with a caipirinha made with local cachaça became my standard order—the tart lime and sugar somehow perfect for muscles recovering from mountain exertions.

One evening, following our Estrada Real hike, Marcos invited me to join his family for dinner at their home on the outskirts of town. This proved to be the culinary highlight of my trip—his wife Maria served homemade cheese bread still warm from the oven, followed by a traditional chicken and okra stew that had been simmering all day. As we dined on their terrace overlooking the twinkling lights of Ouro Preto below, Marcos shared stories of growing up in a family that had lived in the region for nine generations.

"The mountains here," he said, passing me a glass of homemade jabuticaba liqueur, "they get in your blood. Even those who leave always feel them calling."

Sitting there, muscles pleasantly fatigued from the day's adventure, watching fireflies dance against the silhouette of mountains that had witnessed centuries of human ambition, I understood exactly what he meant.