Complete Guide to the Flam Railway: Norway's Most Scenic Mountain Journey

The Flam Railway isn't just remarkable for its views—it's a testament to human determination. Completed in 1940 after 20 years of painstaking construction, this 20-kilometer stretch between Flam and Myrdal remains one of the steepest standard-gauge railway lines in the world. With a gradient of 5.5% throughout most of the route, it climbs 866 meters through 20 tunnels, with 80% of the line carved directly through the mountain.

What makes this particularly impressive is that most of it was excavated by hand. Standing at viewpoints along the route, I found myself repeatedly doing the math—each meter of those tunnels represents countless hours of human labor with technology far more primitive than what we have today.

The railway serves as both a crucial transport link and a premier tourist attraction. Originally built to connect the isolated Flam community with Bergen and Oslo, it now carries over 1 million passengers annually—most of them tourists seeking those postcard-perfect Norwegian vistas that simply can't be accessed any other way.

What separates Flåmsbana from other scenic railways I've experienced is how it combines natural drama with engineering precision. The train navigates hairpin bends with surgical accuracy while providing perfectly framed views of waterfalls, rivers, and valleys that seem almost deliberately arranged for maximum visual impact.

Booking Your Tickets

Lesson learned the hard way: don't wait until you arrive in Flam to secure your tickets, especially during summer months (June-August). On my first visit, I naively assumed mid-week in early June would be quiet enough. I was wrong and ended up waiting an extra day to ride. The railway sells out regularly during peak season.

Book your tickets through the official Flam Railway website (www.flamsbana.no) at least a month in advance for summer travel. Winter offers more flexibility, but I'd still recommend booking a few days ahead. Standard return tickets cost around 550-600 NOK (approximately $55-60 USD) per adult, making this one of Norway's more reasonably priced attractions.

If you're planning to continue onward to Oslo or Bergen (which I highly recommend), you can book combination tickets through the Norwegian railway system (Vy) that include the Flam Railway segment.

Best Time to Ride

While the railway operates year-round, each season offers a distinctly different experience:

• Summer (June-August): Peak tourist season with lush green landscapes and maximum daylight. The 8:35 AM departure from Flam tends to be less crowded than midday trains.

• Autumn (September-October): My personal favorite time. The fall colors transform the mountains into a tapestry of reds and golds, and passenger numbers drop significantly after mid-September.

• Winter (November-March): A magical snow-covered wonderland with fewer tourists, though some viewpoints may be closed. I recommend bringing a good insulated water bottle to keep your coffee or tea hot throughout the journey.

• Spring (April-May): The waterfalls are at their most spectacular as snow melts, though weather can be unpredictable.

For photography enthusiasts like myself, the morning departures offer the best lighting conditions for capturing the eastern valley walls. I always pack my polarizing filter to cut glare from the windows and enhance those vibrant Norwegian blues and greens.

The Flam Railway journey includes several designated stops where the train pauses specifically for passengers to take photos and appreciate particularly spectacular views. Here are the standouts that you'll want to prepare for:

Kjosfossen Waterfall

This thundering 93-meter waterfall is the undisputed highlight of the journey. The train stops here for approximately 5 minutes, allowing passengers to disembark onto a viewing platform. During summer months, you'll witness an unusual spectacle: dancers dressed as mythical Norwegian 'Huldra' (forest spirits) perform on the rocks beside the falls. Some tourists find it charming; others (myself included) find it a bit touristy, but it's certainly memorable.

Pro tip: Most passengers crowd the right side of the platform. Move to the left edge for clearer photo opportunities without other tourists in your frame. My weather-resistant camera has been invaluable here, as the mist from the falls can be substantial depending on recent rainfall.

Berekvam Station

Approximately halfway up the route, this is where trains traveling in opposite directions pass each other. The 5-minute stop offers excellent views of the valley below and the zigzagging railway you've just ascended. It's less crowded than Kjosfossen but equally photogenic.

The 'Spiral Tunnels'

While not a physical stop, keep your camera ready as the train navigates through the famous spiral tunnels between Berekvam and Myrdal. These engineering marvels allow the train to gain elevation quickly by spiraling inside the mountain. The moment when you emerge from a tunnel to find yourself suddenly one level higher on the same mountainside offers a perfect photo opportunity.

Myrdal Station

The upper terminus sits at 867 meters above sea level and connects to the Bergen-Oslo mainline. While not particularly scenic itself, the 20-30 minute stopover allows time to grab a coffee from the small café and photograph the historic station building. If you have a flexible schedule, consider breaking your journey here and taking a later train back down—it's significantly less crowded in the late afternoon.

While the railway might be what draws you to Flam initially, this tiny village of just 350 permanent residents offers several worthwhile experiences that complement your train journey perfectly. I've learned to allocate at least one full day in Flam beyond the railway excursion.

Fjord Cruises

The Naeroyfjord, a branch of the larger Sognefjord, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and among the narrowest fjords in Europe. Several cruise options depart from Flam's harbor, ranging from 2-hour scenic tours to full-day adventures. I particularly recommend the Flam-Gudvangen cruise, which takes you through the most dramatic sections of the fjord where the mountains rise almost vertically from the water.

For fishing enthusiasts like myself, ask at the tourist office about guided fishing excursions on the fjord. The waters here teem with mackerel and cod in summer months, and there's nothing quite like catching your own dinner against such a magnificent backdrop.

Hiking Opportunities

Flam is surrounded by exceptional hiking trails. My personal favorite is the Flam-Myrdal hike, which essentially follows the railway route uphill. At a moderate pace with photo stops, it takes about 5-6 hours. You can then take the train back down, saving your knees the punishing descent. The trail is well-marked and offers perspectives of the valley impossible to see from the train.

For a shorter option, the hike to Brekkefossen waterfall takes about 1-1.5 hours round trip and rewards you with spectacular views over the village and fjord.

Flam Railway Museum

Located right next to the railway station, this free museum chronicles the remarkable construction of the railway. As someone with an appreciation for engineering challenges, I found the old photographs and tools fascinating—they really drive home what an achievement this railway was with the technology available in the 1920s and 30s.

Aegir Brewery

After a day of exploration, treat yourself to a Viking-inspired meal and locally brewed craft beer at Aegir Brewery. Their Viking plank food and beer sampler is the perfect way to refuel. The building itself, constructed in traditional Norse style with dragon heads adorning the roof, is worth seeing even if you don't drink beer. I always pack my travel journal to jot down tasting notes—their seasonal brews are worth remembering.

Despite its small size, Flam offers accommodation options ranging from basic to surprisingly luxurious. Having stayed in several places over my multiple visits, I can offer some firsthand recommendations:

Where to Stay

Flåmsbrygga Hotel: My top recommendation for couples seeking comfort and atmosphere. This waterfront property features rooms with balconies overlooking the fjord, and its timber construction gives it an authentic Norwegian feel. The attached Aegir Brewery (mentioned earlier) means excellent food and drink are just steps from your room. Expect to pay 1800-2500 NOK ($180-250 USD) per night during summer.

Flam Camping and Hostel: For budget travelers, this clean, well-run facility offers both traditional hostel rooms and camping spots. Located about a 10-minute walk from the station, it's peaceful while remaining convenient. Dorm beds start around 350 NOK ($35 USD), while private rooms begin at about 900 NOK ($90 USD).

Historic Hotel Fretheim: Dating back to the 1870s, this grand white wooden hotel was originally built to accommodate English lords who came to the Flam Valley for salmon fishing—something that immediately endeared it to me. The historic wing features rooms with antique furnishings and spectacular views. Summer rates start around 2000 NOK ($200 USD) per night.

Dining Beyond Aegir

While Aegir Brewery is my top dining recommendation, several other options deserve mention:

Flam Bakery: Perfect for breakfast or lunch, their freshly baked goods make an ideal picnic for your train journey. Their Norwegian cinnamon buns paired with strong coffee fueled many of my morning hikes.

Toget Café: Located in an old railway carriage near the station, they serve simple but satisfying Norwegian classics like meatballs and salmon plates at more reasonable prices than you'll find at the hotels.

FjordFood: A small market where you can purchase local specialties if you're staying somewhere with kitchen facilities. Their smoked salmon and local cheeses are excellent souvenirs to bring home.

One practical tip: Norway is notoriously expensive for dining out. Consider bringing a packable daypack and stocking up on picnic supplies for at least some of your meals. The scenery provides dining views no restaurant can match.