Sailing the Bazaruto Archipelago: A 3-Day Adventure from Vilanculos, Mozambique

Vilanculos serves as the gateway to what locals proudly call 'the Pearl of the Indian Ocean.' Before embarking on your sailing adventure, I recommend spending at least one night in this coastal town to acclimate and prepare. I chose the elegant Santorini Mozambique, a Greek-inspired boutique hotel perched on a hill overlooking the archipelago—the perfect prelude to the journey ahead.

Packing for this experience requires thoughtful consideration. The sun here is unforgiving, even during spring (September to November), which I found to be the ideal time to visit. My wide-brimmed hat became my constant companion, along with reef-safe sunscreen to protect both my skin and the delicate marine ecosystems we'd be exploring.

"La preparación es la mitad de la aventura"—preparation is half the adventure, as my abuela used to say. Arrange your sailing charter well in advance, especially during peak season. After researching extensively, I opted for a private dhow experience with Sailaway Safaris, though several luxury operators offer comparable services with varying levels of comfort and expertise.

Our adventure began at dawn, when the air was still cool and the harbor quietly stirred to life. The captain of our traditional dhow—modernized with safety equipment and comfortable cushions—welcomed us with fresh coffee and pão, the Portuguese-influenced bread that's a staple throughout Mozambique.

As we sailed toward Benguerra Island, the second largest in the archipelago, I was transfixed by the water's clarity. My polarized sunglasses revealed an underwater world teeming with life beneath our hull. After two hours of gentle sailing, we arrived at Two Mile Reef, where our first snorkeling session awaited.

The diversity of marine life here rivals the Great Barrier Reef, yet with a fraction of the visitors. Floating above gardens of staghorn coral, I watched as angelfish, parrotfish, and triggerfish darted between the formations. Our guide, Miguel, expertly pointed out a resting reef shark—a sign of a healthy ecosystem, he explained with pride.

By midday, we reached Benguerra's western shore, where our crew prepared a beach picnic that elevated the concept of 'lunch with a view.' Fresh grilled prawns, coconut rice, and tropical fruits were served on a table set directly in the sand, shaded by a canvas canopy. The afternoon brought a guided walk through the island's interior, where we spotted samango monkeys and vibrant bird species in the indigenous forests.

Waking aboard our anchored vessel to the gentle lapping of waves against the hull, I savored the rare privilege of witnessing a sunrise over the Indian Ocean without another soul in sight. After a breakfast of fresh mangoes and coconut pancakes prepared by our onboard chef, we set course for Bazaruto, the archipelago's largest island.

Bazaruto is renowned for its massive sand dunes that rise dramatically from the shoreline—some towering over 100 meters high. The morning's mission: climbing these natural monuments. The exertion was considerable in the growing heat, but my hiking sandals provided perfect traction in the soft sand. The panorama from the summit was worth every labored breath—a 360-degree view of endless blue ocean meeting pristine white beaches and verdant island interiors.

After descending, we navigated to the island's eastern side where our captain knew of a hidden freshwater lake just inland from the beach. This natural phenomenon—a freshwater body surrounded by saltwater ocean—creates a unique ecosystem. Swimming in these sweet waters after the morning's hike felt like discovering a secret oasis.

The afternoon brought us to Pansy Island, a sandbank that appears only at low tide. Here, we searched for the rare pansy shell (sand dollar) that gives the islet its name. As the tide began to rise, we returned to our dhow for an unforgettable sunset sailing session, complete with chilled South African Chenin Blanc and freshly shucked oysters harvested sustainably from the archipelago's waters.

Our final day brought the most anticipated experience of the journey—an encounter with the archipelago's endangered dugongs. These gentle marine mammals, related to manatees, feed on the extensive seagrass beds surrounding Paradise Island (Magaruque), our day's destination.

After an early departure from our overnight anchorage, we arrived at the protected southern waters where our guide indicated dugong sightings were most common. Patience is essential here—we spent nearly two hours scanning the surface before spotting the telltale signs of feeding trails in the seagrass below.

When the moment finally came, our guide signaled silently and pointed to a dark shape moving slowly through the crystal waters. Slipping into the water with minimal disturbance, we maintained a respectful distance as the massive creature—easily 3 meters long—grazed peacefully, seemingly unbothered by our presence. My full-face snorkel mask allowed me to watch this magnificent interaction without the distraction of a traditional snorkel.

The afternoon brought us to Paradise Island itself, the smallest of the main islands in the archipelago. Here, we indulged in the ultimate beach experience—complete seclusion on powder-white sand. Our crew prepared our final lunch—a traditional Mozambican feast of matapa (cassava leaves with peanuts and coconut milk) and freshly caught fish grilled over open coals.

Before returning to Vilanculos, we visited a small fishing village on the island where I discovered artisans creating intricate jewelry from local materials. A necklace of polished cowrie shells and sea glass now sits in my collection, a physical reminder of this extraordinary corner of the world where traditional craftsmanship persists even in the most remote settings.