Day Trips from Nairobi: Conquering Mount Longonot and the Ngong Hills

If there's one thing 35 years of bus driving taught me, it's how to spot efficient transport options. Mount Longonot sits about 90km northwest of Nairobi in the Great Rift Valley—a journey that'll take you roughly two hours depending on traffic and your choice of wheels.

The cheapest option is catching a matatu (Kenya's colorful minibuses) from Nairobi to Naivasha, then another to Longonot town. At around 300 KSH (£2) total, it's a bargain, but be prepared for the classic matatu experience: packed like sardines with chickens potentially as fellow passengers. Reminds me of Liverpool's Number 86 bus on Saturday nights, minus the chickens.

For those wanting more comfort, hiring a taxi for the day runs about 5000-7000 KSH (£30-45)—split between four people, it's reasonable and gives you flexibility. I'd recommend my driver James (I've saved his number in my contacts after three visits), who knows exactly when to avoid Nairobi's rush hour bottlenecks.

If you're feeling adventurous like me, rent a car for about 4000 KSH (£25) daily. The roads are decent, though watch for those notorious potholes that make Sydney's worst streets seem smooth as glass. I always pack my trusty GPS navigator as mobile signals can be spotty and Google Maps once tried sending me down what turned out to be a dry riverbed.

Mount Longonot isn't your average hill—it's a proper volcano standing at 2,776 meters with a massive crater that'll have you picking your jaw up off the ground. The park entrance fee is 800 KSH (about £5) for foreigners, which always strikes me as fair considering the natural wonder you're about to experience.

The hike begins deceptively gentle before quickly showing its true colors. That initial steady incline transforms into a proper quad-burning ascent that had me questioning my life choices by the halfway mark. After 30 minutes of steady climbing, you'll reach a viewpoint that offers your first glimpse of the crater—take it from an old bus driver who's seen his share of impressive sights, this one's worth pausing for.

The full crater rim circuit takes about 3-4 hours and is where the real adventure begins. The path narrows in sections with steep drops on either side—nothing dangerous if you're careful, but not for the faint-hearted. The southern rim offers spectacular views across Lake Naivasha and the Great Rift Valley that make every drop of sweat worthwhile.

I'd recommend wearing proper hiking boots rather than trainers. The volcanic soil gets slippery, especially during descent, and these boots have saved my aging knees from punishment on multiple occasions. My second visit was during a light rain, and I watched three young tourists slip repeatedly in their fancy fashion trainers while my boots gripped like they were made for the job.

While Mount Longonot gets all the glory, the Ngong Hills are my secret favorite—partly because they're just 22km from Nairobi (a bus driver always appreciates proximity) and partly because they offer a completely different experience with far fewer tourists.

The Ngong Hills form a ridge with seven distinct peaks resembling knuckles on a fist—'Ngong' actually means 'knuckles' in Maasai. The entrance fee is a mere 200 KSH (about £1.20) for foreigners, making this possibly the best value adventure near Nairobi.

From Nairobi, grab a matatu to Ngong Town (50 KSH) and then either walk the 3km to the entrance or take a bodaboda (motorcycle taxi) for another 100 KSH. I've always found the bodaboda drivers at Ngong Town to be fair with pricing—unlike some tourist areas where they seem to think all foreigners are walking ATMs.

The standard hike takes you across all seven hills, covering about 11.5km one-way. It's a proper up-and-down affair that'll have your thighs burning, but nothing too technical. I typically start from the Ngong Town side and finish at Kona Baridi, as the elevation gain is more gradual this way.

The views are spectacular—Nairobi's skyline on one side and the vast Rift Valley on the other. On clear days, you might even spot wildlife in the distance, including giraffes and zebras. My compact binoculars have been invaluable for wildlife spotting here—lightweight enough for a day hike but powerful enough to bring distant animals into focus.

Be aware that security concerns have existed in the past. I always check the current situation before heading out and have never had problems, but it's wise to hike in groups and avoid carrying flashy gear. The Kenya Wildlife Service rangers at the entrance can provide up-to-date advice.

After decades of bus driving, I've learned that finding good, honest grub is essential when you're knackered from physical exertion. Both hiking areas offer some proper local eating experiences that won't dent your wallet.

Near Mount Longonot, skip the overpriced tourist restaurants and head to Longonot Town's small eateries where locals dine. My go-to spot is Mama Oliech's tiny roadside kibanda (food stall) where 300 KSH (less than £2) gets you a mountain of ugali (maize porridge) with sukuma wiki (kale) and nyama choma (grilled meat). The portions could feed a small family—perfect after burning thousands of calories on the crater rim.

For Ngong Hills, I always finish at Savannah Coffee House in Ngong Town. Their samosas (30 KSH each) are possibly the best I've had outside of Liverpool's Bold Street, and their chai masala (80 KSH) revives tired muscles better than any energy drink. The locals who run it have seen me enough times now that they start brewing my tea when they spot me trudging back from the hills.

I always carry a small hydration backpack with water and snacks for the trail. The 2.5-liter capacity means I'm never caught short, and having water on demand through the drinking tube means I stay properly hydrated without having to stop and rummage through my bag every time I need a sip.

One word of advice—carry small bills for these local spots. Nothing causes more awkward moments than trying to pay for a 300 KSH meal with a 5000 KSH note. I learned this lesson the hard way on my first visit when poor Mama Oliech had to send her son running to four different shops to make change.

After conquering both these peaks multiple times, I'm often asked which I'd recommend to first-timers. The answer depends on what you're after.

Mount Longonot offers the more dramatic landscape and a proper challenging hike. The volcanic crater is genuinely impressive—something you'll be showing photos of for years to come. The downside? It's further from Nairobi and more popular with tourists, especially on weekends.

The Ngong Hills provide a more varied hiking experience with their multiple peaks and ridges. They're significantly closer to Nairobi (making them perfect for those short on time), less crowded, and offer both city and wilderness views. The terrain is less rugged than Longonot but covering all seven hills is no walk in the park—you'll still feel it in your legs the next day.

For photography enthusiasts, I'd lean toward Longonot for landscape shots and Ngong for wildlife opportunities. My trusty hiking daypack has accompanied me on both mountains multiple times—its padded shoulder straps and back panel have been a blessing for my 64-year-old frame, and the multiple compartments keep my camera gear organized and accessible.

If you're feeling particularly energetic and have a few days in Nairobi, why not do both? They offer complementary experiences that showcase different aspects of Kenya's magnificent landscape. Just leave a day in between for recovery—these old bus driver legs needed it, and I suspect yours might too.