Uncovering Somaliland's Past: Historical Landmarks and Cave Art Near Hargeisa

Approximately 50 kilometers northeast of Hargeisa lies what many archaeologists consider Africa's most significant rock art site. Laas Geel (meaning 'water point for camels') consists of about 20 rock shelters adorned with remarkably preserved polychromatic paintings dating back to 3000-4000 BCE.

What struck me most wasn't just the artistic merit—though the stylized cows with elongated horns and human figures in ceremonial poses are undeniably beautiful—but the exceptional preservation. Unlike many ancient rock art sites I've explored from Thailand to the American Southwest, Laas Geel's paintings retain vibrant pigments of red, yellow, white and black, thanks to the overhanging rock formations that protected them from the elements.

Navigating to Laas Geel requires advance planning. You'll need to secure permits from the Ministry of Tourism in Hargeisa and hire an official guide and armed escort—non-negotiable requirements that actually enhance the experience through added context and security. I arranged everything through local tour operator, who handled all paperwork and logistics seamlessly.

The journey across the arid landscape requires a capable vehicle. My rented 4x4 SUV handled the rough terrain admirably, though the final approach involves a short hike up rocky terrain.

The coastal city of Berbera, about a three-hour drive north of Hargeisa, offers a fascinating architectural journey through Somaliland's complex colonial past. The Old Town district features a compelling mix of Ottoman, British, and traditional Somali architectural elements that have withstood both time and conflict.

Walking the narrow streets between whitewashed buildings with distinctive coral stone foundations, I was transported to another era. The Ottoman mosque with its elegant minaret stands as testament to the Turkish influence that once dominated this important Red Sea port. Nearby, British colonial administrative buildings with their distinctive verandas speak to the later European presence.

Preparing for Berbera's intense coastal heat requires thoughtful packing. My cooling towel proved invaluable during midday explorations, and I was grateful for my wide-brimmed hat which provided crucial sun protection while exploring the architectural details.

My guide, arranged through my hotel in Hargeisa, provided invaluable historical context that connected the architectural styles to the region's complex political history. Without his insights, I would have missed subtle details like the carved wooden door frames that indicate a building's original purpose and importance.

The mountain town of Sheikh, situated between Hargeisa and Berbera at an elevation of about 1,470 meters, offers both respite from the coastal heat and a window into British colonial history in Somaliland. The abandoned British Administrative buildings, including the former Governor's residence, stand as haunting reminders of the colonial era.

What makes Sheikh particularly interesting is how the British colonial architecture adapted to the mountainous environment. Unlike the coastal buildings in Berbera, these structures incorporate local stone with thicker walls for insulation against the cooler mountain temperatures. My compact thermometer registered a 15°C difference between Berbera and Sheikh during my winter visit—a welcome change that makes Sheikh an excellent base for exploring the region.

The winding mountain road to Sheikh demands careful driving but rewards travelers with spectacular vistas across the arid landscape. I stopped frequently to photograph the dramatic terrain, using my polarizing filter to cut through haze and enhance the stark beauty of the mountains.

Beyond the colonial buildings, Sheikh offers insights into traditional pastoral life. The surrounding hillsides are dotted with nomadic settlements, and the weekly livestock market provides a fascinating glimpse into an economic system that has sustained communities here for centuries.

Back in Hargeisa itself, two sites provide essential context for understanding Somaliland's modern identity. The War Memorial in the city center features a MiG fighter jet mounted on a plinth—a sobering reminder of the aircraft used to bomb civilians during the Somali Civil War. Standing beneath this instrument of destruction, now transformed into a monument of resilience, offers powerful perspective on Somaliland's journey to self-declared independence.

Nearby, the Saryan Museum houses a modest but significant collection of artifacts spanning the region's history from prehistoric times through the colonial era and independence struggle. What the museum lacks in high-tech displays it makes up for in authenticity and the passionate knowledge of its caretakers.

Documenting these powerful sites required thoughtful preparation. My waterproof notebook proved invaluable for recording observations and interviews in all conditions, while my portable power bank kept my devices charged through long days of photography and recording.

The museum's collection of traditional nomadic artifacts—including intricately designed portable homes that can be assembled and disassembled for migration—resonated deeply with my interest in how cultural identity persists through displacement, something I've explored in my own Korean-American journey.

Traveling through Somaliland requires preparation beyond the typical tourist destination. The region operates under strict Islamic customs, and respectful engagement with these practices enhances both safety and cultural experience. Women should plan to dress modestly with long skirts/pants and covered shoulders, while men should avoid shorts in public spaces.

Somaliland uses a combination of US dollars and Somaliland shillings. I found carrying crisp, newer USD bills essential, as torn or older bills are often rejected. For local currency transactions, I used a money belt to securely carry larger amounts of the bulky Somaliland shillings required for everyday purchases.

My satellite communicator provided peace of mind in remote areas where cellular coverage is nonexistent. This compact device allowed me to maintain emergency communication capabilities and share my location with family back home—an essential safety measure when exploring archaeological sites far from population centers.

Arranging a reliable driver/guide in advance is non-negotiable. Not only is it required for many sites, but a knowledgeable local guide transforms the experience from simple sightseeing to meaningful cultural exchange. My guide shared personal stories of growing up during the civil war period that provided context impossible to gain from guidebooks alone.