San Pedro to Caye Caulker: Island Hopping Guide for Belize's Cayes

The journey to Belize's cayes begins with a flight into Belize City's international airport (BZE). From there, you have two options: a scenic 15-minute flight with either Maya Island Air or Tropic Air (my recommendation with a young child), or the more adventurous water taxi route.

Maya and I opted for the flight to San Pedro, and the aerial view of the barrier reef—the second largest in the world—was worth every penny. Her face pressed against the window, eyes wide with wonder, is a memory I'll forever cherish as we approached Ambergris Caye.

If you choose the water taxi, both San Pedro Water Taxi and Ocean Ferry Belize offer regular services. The journey takes approximately 90 minutes to San Pedro or 45 minutes to Caye Caulker. When traveling with kids, I strongly recommend a motion sickness band if you opt for the water route—the Caribbean can get choppy without warning, as we discovered on our return journey.

San Pedro on Ambergris Caye serves as the perfect starting point for your island adventure. As Belize's largest caye, it offers more amenities while still maintaining that laid-back Caribbean vibe. After presiding over numerous cases where people postponed joy for 'someday,' I've learned to embrace experiences now—a philosophy that led Maya and I to San Pedro's sandy streets.

We stayed at the mid-range Sunbreeze Hotel, ideally located within walking distance to restaurants and activities while offering a pool that became Maya's afternoon ritual. For families seeking more space, I recommend considering a portable beach tent for those long days by the shore—it provided us much-needed shade and a quiet spot for afternoon naps.

Golf carts are the primary mode of transportation, and renting one is essential if you plan to explore beyond the town center. The freedom to discover hidden beaches and local eateries at our own pace made the rental fee worthwhile. Secret Beach, despite its not-so-secret status, remains a must-visit with its shallow, calm waters perfect for young swimmers.

If San Pedro is the measured argument in court, Caye Caulker is the compelling closing statement. The island's unofficial motto—'Go Slow'—perfectly captures its essence. After a quick 30-minute water taxi ride from San Pedro, we arrived at this car-free island paradise that immediately captivated both of us.

Caye Caulker offers a more authentic, rustic Belizean experience. We stayed at Colinda Cabanas, where our modest beachfront cabin provided the perfect backdrop for morning coffee (for me) and shell collecting (for Maya). The slower pace here allowed us to truly connect—both with each other and with the locals who quickly learned Maya's name.

The Split, a narrow water channel dividing the island, serves as the social hub. While I enjoyed a cold Belikin beer at the famous Lazy Lizard bar, Maya splashed in the shallow waters nearby. For families with children, I recommend packing a waterproof phone case and a floating waterproof speaker to enhance your beach days.

Food on Caye Caulker deserves special mention. From fresh lobster at Reina's to the mouthwatering fry jacks for breakfast at Errolyn's House of Fry Jacks, the island's culinary scene rivals any I've encountered in my travels.

The true magic of Belize's cayes lies in the experiences they offer. As a father who values both educational opportunities and pure joy for my daughter, I found the perfect balance in these activities:

Snorkeling Hol Chan Marine Reserve: Even for beginners and children, this protected area offers an underwater courtroom of marine life. Maya, equipped with her kids snorkel set, squealed with delight through her snorkel at her first sight of a stingray. Many tour operators offer family-friendly options with patient guides who ensure children feel safe.

Fishing with Local Guides: As an avid fisherman, I couldn't resist introducing Maya to her first fishing experience. We booked a half-day trip with Captain Julio from Caye Caulker, who specialized in family outings. The pride on Maya's face when she caught her first snapper was worth every penny. For those interested in fishing, I recommend bringing a collapsible water bottle as the Caribbean sun can quickly lead to dehydration.

Belize Wildlife Sanctuary: On Ambergris Caye, the American Crocodile Education Sanctuary (ACES) offers educational tours that fascinated both of us. As someone who values environmental conservation, I appreciated how they taught Maya about respecting wildlife rather than fearing it.

Traveling these islands with Maya required some judicial wisdom—knowing when to push forward and when to reconsider. The cayes, while family-friendly, present unique challenges for parents.

First, medical facilities are limited, particularly on Caye Caulker. I packed a comprehensive first aid kit that fortunately remained unused except for a minor scrape. San Pedro has a medical center for more serious concerns, but complex issues require evacuation to Belize City.

Second, island time is real. Services move at their own pace, and dinner can take twice as long as expected. Rather than fight this reality (a losing case, I assure you), we embraced it by packing Maya's travel activity kit for restaurant waits.

Finally, the tropical sun demands respect. We established a routine of morning activities, afternoon rest, and evening explorations to avoid the harshest midday rays. Our accommodations with air conditioning provided necessary respite from the heat—a feature worth the extra cost when traveling with children.

What surprised me most was how welcoming Belizeans were to children. Maya was greeted by name at restaurants after just one visit, offered special treats at shops, and even invited to join local children in their games at public beaches. This warm community feeling provided a stark contrast to our more anonymous life back in Ohio.