48 Hours in Medan: The Essential Guide to North Sumatra's Vibrant Capital

Start your Medan adventure where I always begin exploring a new city – at its beating heart. Head to Kesawan Square in the morning, when the colonial architecture bathes in golden light and the temperature remains somewhat merciful. The square and surrounding area showcase Medan's fascinating cultural fusion, with Dutch colonial buildings standing proudly alongside Chinese temples and Islamic mosques.

After working up an appetite, make your way to Merdeka Walk, an open-air food court that comes alive as the day progresses. This is where I had my first taste of soto Medan – a fragrant coconut-based soup that made me temporarily forget my name. The secret? Ask for extra kecap manis (sweet soy sauce) and a squeeze of lime.

As afternoon slides into evening, grab a becak (trishaw) to Tjong A Fie Mansion, a stunning Chinese-Malay heritage house built by one of Medan's wealthiest merchants. The architecture is breathtaking, but what fascinated me most were the stories of cultural integration and the pivotal role Chinese immigrants played in shaping Medan's identity.

End your first day at Pasar Malam Petisah (Petisah Night Market), where the true culinary soul of Medan reveals itself. Here, I discovered bika ambon, a honeycomb-textured cake that's impossibly spongy and aromatic with pandan. Bring a collapsible food container to take some treats back to your hotel – you'll thank me when midnight cravings strike.

Let me be clear: you don't come to Medan to diet. This city demands you loosen your belt and dive headfirst into its spectacular food scene. My culinary epiphany came at Tip Top Restaurant, a colonial-era institution that's been serving Dutch-Indonesian fusion since 1934. Their roti srikaya (coconut jam toast) paired with strong Sumatran coffee is worth every calorie.

For lunch, brave the bustling atmosphere of Garuda Restaurant for the most authentic nasi padang experience. When they bring out those small plates stacked impossibly high on one arm – a feat of physics that still amazes me – point to whatever looks good. The rendang here changed my understanding of what beef can become when simmered for hours in coconut and spices.

Medan's Chinese influence shines at Pasar Hindu (despite the name, it's the city's Chinatown). I stumbled upon a tiny stall selling kwetiau goreng (stir-fried flat rice noodles) that had me returning three times during my stay. The secret weapon in my street food adventures was my trusty portable utensil set, which saved me from fumbling with unfamiliar utensils while trying to maintain some dignity.

Don't miss durian pancake at Bolu Meranti – even if you're durian-averse like I initially was. The creamy, custard-like filling wrapped in soft pandan pancake converted me to the dark side. I'm now that annoying person who defends durian at dinner parties.

Rise early on your second day to visit Masjid Raya Al-Mashun (Grand Mosque), an architectural masterpiece that fuses Moorish, Middle Eastern, and Spanish influences. Even as a non-Muslim visitor, I was welcomed warmly – just be sure to dress respectfully and remove shoes before entering. The morning light filtering through the stained glass windows creates a kaleidoscope effect that no photograph can truly capture.

A short walk away stands Graha Maria Annai Velangkanni, perhaps Medan's most unusual religious site. This Catholic church built in Dravidian-Indian style stopped me in my tracks – it looks more like a Hindu temple than any church I've seen. The caretaker shared fascinating stories about the building's inception and the harmonious religious diversity in Medan.

For lunch, head to Pasar Ikan (Fish Market) near the harbor. This isn't in most guidebooks, but watching fishermen unload their morning catch while sampling goreng belut (fried eel) from makeshift stalls was one of my most authentic experiences. My quick-dry microfiber towel came in handy here – markets in tropical climates can leave you wanting to freshen up quickly.

Spend your afternoon at Kampung Keling, Medan's Little India, where spice shops fill the air with cardamom and clove. I bought a small pouch of Sumatran vanilla beans that have transformed my home baking. The Sri Mariamman Temple here is smaller than Graha Maria but equally captivating with its intricate sculptures.

As your 48 hours in Medan draw to a close, treat yourself to dinner at Tip Top Restaurant (yes, I'm sending you back – it's that good). This time, order their Dutch-inspired rijsttafel – a colonial feast featuring dozens of small dishes that showcase the incredible diversity of Indonesian cuisine. I still dream about their sambal goreng udang (spicy fried prawns).

For evening entertainment, Centre Point Mall offers a glimpse into modern Indonesian urban life. The top floor houses a surprisingly good food court where you can sample regional specialties from across the archipelago. I picked up some excellent Indonesian coffee beans here that made my colleagues back home very happy.

A practical note on accommodations: Medan offers excellent value for budget travelers. I stayed at JW Marriott Medan (a splurge by local standards but still reasonable) for its central location and rooftop pool – essential for cooling off after humid days exploring. However, plenty of boutique guesthouses in the Kesawan area offer authentic experiences at a fraction of the price.

Before leaving, stock up on bika ambon and terasi (shrimp paste) from Pasar Petisah. The latter might require a smell-proof travel bag to prevent your clothes from smelling like fermented shrimp for the remainder of your journey – a lesson I learned the hard way when my seatmate on the flight out gave me side-eye for the duration of our journey.