Desert Transportation Guide: Navigating Tozeur and the Sahara by Camel, 4x4 and Train

Any proper exploration of Tozeur begins with a journey on the legendary Lézard Rouge (Red Lizard Train), a beautifully preserved relic from the Bey of Tunis's personal collection dating back to the 1910s. This crimson beauty winds through the breathtaking Selja Gorges, offering vistas that shift from palm-studded oases to dramatic rocky canyons.

When my friends and I boarded early on our second morning in Tozeur, I was immediately transported to another era. The train's vintage carriages feature polished wood paneling, brass fixtures, and plush velvet seats that have hosted dignitaries for over a century. As we chugged along the narrow-gauge railway, the contrast between the train's refined interior and the rugged landscape outside created a sensory experience not unlike pairing a delicate Sancerre with a robust North African tagine—unexpected but perfectly complementary.

The train makes strategic stops at panoramic viewpoints, allowing passengers to disembark for photos. I recommend bringing a insulated water bottle as the air conditioning on the train can be temperamental, and the desert heat is formidable even in fall.

If the Red Lizard Train offers a taste of colonial-era transportation, then a 4x4 desert safari is the full tasting menu of Saharan exploration. We arranged a full-day excursion through our riad, setting off before sunrise with Mohammed, our guide whose knowledge of the desert rivaled my own understanding of Rhône Valley terroirs.

The 4x4 experience allows access to remote areas impossible to reach by other means. We ventured to the salt lake of Chott el Jerid, where mirages danced across the crystalline surface, creating illusions that seemed to bend reality itself. Later, we explored the abandoned Star Wars sets at Ong Jemel and Mos Espa, where the otherworldly landscape needs no CGI enhancement.

The highlight came at sunset when Mohammed drove us deep into the Grand Erg Oriental, where dunes rise like golden waves frozen in time. Here, away from all signs of civilization, we sat in perfect silence as the setting sun painted the sand in hues ranging from champagne gold to deep amber—a desert sommelier's perfect flight of colors.

For this expedition, I was grateful for my desert scarf which protected against both sun and occasional sand gusts. Our guide also provided portable chairs for our sunset viewing, but bringing your own ensures comfort during these magical moments.

No desert transportation guide would be complete without discussing the ship of the desert—the dromedary camel. While 4x4s offer efficiency and trains provide comfort, camel trekking connects you to thousands of years of Saharan travel tradition.

We arranged a sunset camel trek through the palm groves of Tozeur and into the surrounding dunes. The gentle sway of the camel's gait creates a meditative rhythm unlike any other mode of transport I've experienced. It's slow travel in its purest form—like decanting an aged Bordeaux, you simply cannot rush the process.

Our guide, Youssef, led us along ancient caravan routes, pointing out medicinal desert plants and telling stories of the trans-Saharan trade that once brought gold, salt, and slaves across these unforgiving landscapes. As someone who appreciates terroir, I was fascinated by how the Bedouin people read the subtle changes in sand texture and dune formation the way I might analyze the soil composition of a premier cru vineyard.

The physical demands of camel riding shouldn't be underestimated—your inner thighs and lower back will remind you of this adventure for days afterward! I highly recommend wearing proper hiking pants rather than shorts or jeans to prevent chafing against the traditional saddles. And don't forget to bring a compact binoculars to spot distant wildlife and appreciate the vastness of the landscape.

Between our grand desert excursions, we needed practical ways to explore Tozeur itself. The town offers two distinctive local transportation options that deserve mention: louages and electric tuk-tuks.

Louages are Tunisia's shared taxis—typically white Peugeot station wagons that operate like informal bus services, departing when full rather than on a fixed schedule. They're the most economical option for traveling between Tozeur and neighboring towns like Nefta or Degache. The experience is authentically local; you'll be squeezed in with residents carrying everything from groceries to live chickens. While not luxurious, these journeys offered some of our most memorable cultural exchanges, despite my limited Arabic.

Within Tozeur itself, electric tuk-tuks have become increasingly popular for environmentally-conscious exploration of the old town and medina. Silent and emission-free, these nimble three-wheelers can navigate the narrowest alleys of the historic quarter, reaching places that conventional vehicles cannot. Our tuk-tuk driver, Bilel, doubled as an unofficial guide, pointing out the distinctive geometric brick patterns that make Tozeur's architecture unique in Tunisia.

For navigating the town's attractions, I found a crossbody anti-theft bag invaluable for keeping essentials secure while maintaining easy access for photography and small purchases in the bustling souks.