The Complete Guide to Reaching and Navigating Pyongyang: Transport Realities

There are exactly two ways into North Korea: by air or by train, and both come with more paperwork than a cross-country hazmat haul.

The most common route is flying Air Koryo from Beijing to Pyongyang on one of their Russian Tupolev aircraft. It's a bizarre time capsule experience – from the propaganda newspapers they hand out to the mysterious meat sandwich they serve (affectionately dubbed the 'Koryo Burger' by foreigners). Before you ask – no, you can't use your fancy noise-canceling headphones during the flight. Electronics rules are strict.

Your alternative is the train from Beijing through Dandong (China) to Pyongyang. It's a 24-hour journey that I personally prefer – you'll see the dramatic transition at the border, complete with thorough customs inspections where officials will check every digital item you're carrying. Make sure your travel adapters are easily accessible as they'll want to inspect those too.

Both entry methods require booking through authorized tour companies – you cannot just show up at the border. Period.

Here's the deal – independent travel in North Korea doesn't exist. You must be accompanied by government-approved guides at all times. This isn't a suggestion; it's non-negotiable.

Your transportation will be arranged through your tour company, typically using dedicated tourist buses or vans that follow pre-approved routes. These vehicles are comfortable enough, though nothing fancy. During my three visits, I've found that groups of 15-20 typically get standard buses, while smaller groups might use minivans.

While touring, I recommend keeping a detailed travel journal. My waterproof notepad has been invaluable since electronics use is restricted in many areas. Plus, there's something special about physically writing down observations rather than typing them.

Your guides will be with you constantly – even in the hotel. This isn't because they're suspicious (though there's element of monitoring); it's their job to ensure you follow local customs and regulations. Build a good relationship with them – they control everything from bathroom breaks to photo opportunities.

The Pyongyang Metro is hands-down the most fascinating public transportation system I've ever experienced – and that's saying something from someone who's ridden everything from Bangkok tuk-tuks to Bolivian death roads.

Descending 110 meters underground (one of the world's deepest systems), you're transported into stations that look like ornate palaces, complete with chandeliers, marble columns, and massive socialist murals. For years, tourists were only allowed to visit two showcase stations, but recent tours have expanded access to more of the system.

The trains themselves are vintage German subway cars from the 1970s, reportedly purchased from Berlin. They're maintained impeccably despite their age. During rush hour, the cars fill with locals reading newspapers or books – smartphone zombies don't exist here.

For capturing these incredible underground palaces, I recommend a compact light since flash photography can draw unwanted attention. The lighting is surprisingly good, but having a small boost helps capture the details in those incredible mosaics.

Despite being a showpiece, the metro is genuinely used by locals. Your minders will closely watch your interactions, but respectful nods and smiles are usually reciprocated.

Walking around Pyongyang is possible but strictly regulated. Your guides determine where you can walk, when you can walk, and how fast you walk. This isn't a city where you can wander off for solo exploration.

During my visits, I've noticed increasing flexibility for short walks between destinations, especially around Kim Il-sung Square and along the Taedong River. These moments provide rare glimpses into everyday life – children practicing for mass games, elderly folks playing board games in parks, and the occasional local on a bicycle.

Comfortable footwear is absolutely essential. I swear by my walking shoes which have supported me through countless miles of concrete plazas and monument visits. The city is surprisingly hilly in parts, and you'll be doing more standing than you expect while guides explain the significance of various landmarks.

Pyongyang's wide boulevards were designed for military parades, not pedestrians, so crossings can be intimidating. Always follow your guide's lead – traffic rules aren't what you're used to, and the occasional military vehicle expects absolute right-of-way.

Let's talk straight – medical emergencies in North Korea are no joke. The local healthcare system isn't equipped to handle serious conditions, and medical evacuation is complicated by political realities.

Before traveling, comprehensive travel insurance that explicitly covers North Korea is non-negotiable. Many standard policies exclude it, so read the fine print. I use travel insurance which is one of the few that covers this region, though always verify current coverage before purchasing.

In a genuine emergency, your tour company works with your embassy (typically through the Swedish Embassy, which represents many Western nations in Pyongyang) to arrange evacuation – usually to Beijing. This process isn't quick, so bringing a personal medical kit with prescription medications you might need is essential.

Communication during emergencies is limited. There's no international cellular service, and internet access is non-existent for tourists. Your tour company is your lifeline, which is why choosing a reputable operator with experience handling emergencies is crucial. From my trucker days, I learned always having a backup plan – in Pyongyang, that means preventative health measures and choosing your tour company wisely.