Trekking Papua New Guinea's Highlands: Adventure Guide from Lae to Mt. Shungol

The journey from Lae to Mt. Shungol isn't for the casual trekker—it demands meticulous planning, excellent physical conditioning, and a genuine respect for one of the world's last great wilderness frontiers.

As a veterinarian who frequently travels with scientific equipment, I've learned that preparation for PNG requires an extra level of detail. You'll need to secure permits through a reputable trekking company at least 3-4 months in advance, as the government closely monitors access to protect both the environment and the indigenous communities. I worked with Wilderness Expeditions PNG, whose connections with local communities proved invaluable throughout our journey.

While this is categorized as a luxury trek, understand that 'luxury' in PNG's highlands means comfortable base camps, expert guides, and excellent meals—not five-star hotels. Your accommodations will range from well-appointed lodges in Lae to premium wilderness camps and occasional homestays in traditional villages.

For this challenging terrain, I relied heavily on my trekking poles which proved essential for stability on the steep, often muddy trails. The carbon construction kept them lightweight in my pack when not needed, while providing crucial support during river crossings and on precarious mountain paths.

Vaccinations and medical preparation are non-negotiable. Beyond standard travel immunizations, you'll need Japanese encephalitis, typhoid, and potentially rabies vaccines. As a medical professional, I strongly recommend consulting with a travel medicine specialist at least 8 weeks before departure. My medical kit was more comprehensive than usual, including antibiotics, antimalarials, and treatments for potential gastrointestinal issues.

Lae serves as more than just a starting point—it's your final opportunity to acclimate and prepare before entering a world where Western conveniences become increasingly scarce. I spent three days in this coastal city, dividing my time between final gear checks, visiting the botanical gardens (which house an impressive collection of native orchids), and meeting with local conservation officials.

The Melanesian Hotel offers the most comfortable accommodation in Lae, with spacious rooms and reliable infrastructure—a luxury you'll soon come to appreciate. Use this time to test all equipment, particularly your water purification system. This portable filtration system proved indispensable throughout the trek, allowing me to safely refill from streams and rivers while removing bacteria, viruses, and protozoan cysts. The speed and simplicity of use made it perfect for our group's hydration needs in remote areas.

Our journey began with a 4WD transfer from Lae to the trailhead near Mumeng, where the landscape transitions from coastal plains to rolling foothills. This first day of hiking serves as a gentle introduction, with approximately 5-6 hours of trekking through humid forest before reaching our first camp. The biodiversity shift is immediately apparent—as a veterinarian, I was captivated by the diversity of bird species, from the raucous calls of hornbills to fleeting glimpses of paradise kingfishers.

During this initial ascent, you'll encounter your first local villages, where children often greet trekking groups with curious excitement. Our guide facilitated a visit to a small community where we observed traditional methods of preparing sago palm—a staple food source. These early cultural interactions set the tone for the journey ahead, emphasizing respectful engagement with communities whose ancestral lands you're traversing.

As we ascended into the middle highlands, crossing the 1,500-meter elevation mark, the ecosystem transformed dramatically. The humid lowland forest gave way to montane cloud forest, with moss-draped trees and a perpetual mist that created an almost mystical atmosphere. This ecological transition zone hosts some of Papua New Guinea's most fascinating wildlife.

My veterinary background gave me a unique appreciation for the adaptations of highland species. Our third morning, I woke before dawn to accompany our wildlife guide to a known bird-of-paradise display site. Using my binoculars, we observed the elaborate courtship display of the Raggiana bird-of-paradise, Papua New Guinea's national bird. These premium binoculars proved perfect for wildlife observation throughout the trek—lightweight enough for all-day carrying yet powerful enough to capture detailed views of distant wildlife.

The middle highlands section of our trek took four challenging days, with daily hikes averaging 6-8 hours across increasingly rugged terrain. River crossings become more frequent here, with local guides constructing temporary bridges from natural materials—a remarkable demonstration of traditional knowledge and engineering.

One particularly memorable evening, our luxury camp was visited by a cuscus (a nocturnal marsupial) foraging in trees nearby. Our guides explained that many highland animals are experiencing habitat pressure as climate change alters the delicate ecosystem balance. These encounters underscored for me the importance of sustainable tourism that financially supports conservation efforts.

The middle highlands also introduced us to more remote villages, where traditional customs remain largely intact. In one community, we were invited to witness a small sing-sing (ceremonial gathering), with villagers adorned in elaborate headdresses featuring bird of paradise plumes—all from sustainable sources, as our guide carefully explained. These cultural exchanges were facilitated through our trekking company's long-established relationships, offering authentic insights rarely available to ordinary tourists.

The cultural aspect of trekking through Papua New Guinea's highlands is as profound as the physical journey itself. With over 800 languages spoken across the country, each valley can present distinct cultural traditions and belief systems. Our trek incorporated strategic overnight stays in three different highland communities, each offering unique perspectives on traditional life.

In the village of Kainantu, we participated in a traditional mumu feast—food slow-cooked with hot stones in an earth oven. Our hosts demonstrated the entire process, from preparing the pit to arranging layers of taro, sweet potato, and locally raised pork. The communal nature of food preparation and sharing reflects core values that have sustained these communities for thousands of years.

Preparing for these village stays requires cultural sensitivity and appropriate gifts. I brought medical supplies for the local aid post and educational materials about wildlife conservation, which were received with genuine appreciation. Many villages have established small guesthouses specifically for trekking groups, providing comfortable accommodation while generating sustainable income for the community.

One of the most powerful cultural experiences came in a small village near the base of Mt. Shungol, where we were invited to observe a traditional healing ceremony. As a medical professional, I was fascinated by the botanical knowledge displayed by the local healer, who identified numerous medicinal plants that science has only recently begun to study. This exchange of knowledge—respecting traditional wisdom while sharing modern medical understanding—became one of the most meaningful aspects of my journey.

For documenting these cultural encounters, I relied on my mirrorless camera with a versatile lens. The camera's excellent low-light performance proved essential for capturing indoor ceremonies and twilight activities without intrusive flash photography. Its weather-sealing also protected against the persistent highland humidity that can quickly damage electronics.

The culmination of our highland trek—the ascent of Mt. Shungol—represents both the physical and metaphorical pinnacle of the journey. At 3,730 meters, Shungol isn't Papua New Guinea's highest peak, but its isolated position and the approach through progressively challenging terrain make it a significant mountaineering achievement.

We established our final base camp at approximately 2,900 meters, in a protected valley featuring alpine meadows dotted with unique highland flowers. The temperature drop was substantial, with nighttime readings approaching freezing—a stark contrast to the humid coastal environment where our journey began two weeks earlier. Here, my down sleeping bag proved its worth despite the considerable investment. The exceptional warmth-to-weight ratio and compression capability made it ideal for the variable conditions we encountered throughout the trek, while providing crucial comfort during the coldest nights at higher elevations.

The summit day began at 3:30 AM, with headlamps illuminating the rocky path as we began the final ascent in darkness. This strategic early start allowed us to reach the summit by mid-morning, maximizing our chances for clear views before afternoon clouds typically engulf the peak. The final approach involves some technical sections requiring basic scrambling skills, though no specialized climbing equipment is needed during the summer season.

Reaching the summit produced one of those transcendent moments that justify every blister and muscle ache accumulated over the preceding days. The panoramic view encompasses a vast swath of Papua New Guinea's interior highlands, with layer upon layer of ridges fading into the distance. On exceptionally clear days, it's possible to glimpse the distant coastline—a visual reminder of how far we'd traveled.

Our descent followed a different route, completing a loop that offered fresh perspectives and ecosystems. This circular approach is strongly recommended over retracing your steps, as it maximizes exposure to the region's biodiversity and cultural variations. The descent route passes through several small settlements before rejoining the main trail system for our return journey to civilization.