Island Adventures: Family-Friendly Discoveries in Ebeye, Marshall Islands

When planning our week in Ebeye, I found precious little reliable information online. This isn't Bora Bora or Fiji—it's one of the most densely populated islands in the Pacific, home to approximately 15,000 people on a sliver of land you can walk across in minutes. The relationship between Ebeye and neighboring Kwajalein (home to a U.S. military base) is complex, shaped by decades of nuclear testing history and ongoing geopolitical realities.

Before arriving, I prepared my son with honest conversations about what we'd encounter: limited infrastructure, visible poverty, and environmental challenges. But I also emphasized that these physical conditions don't define the spirit of a place or its people. To document our journey properly, I brought my waterproof notebook which proved invaluable during unexpected tropical downpours and boat trips.

The ferry between Kwajalein and Ebeye runs regularly, though schedules can be fluid. What struck me immediately was how the 15-minute journey transported us between worlds—from the manicured American installation to the vibrant, crowded reality of Marshallese daily life. My contractor's eye couldn't help but notice the ingenious ways buildings had been constructed and modified with limited materials, a testament to human adaptability.

What makes Ebeye extraordinary for families willing to step outside conventional tourism is the opportunity for genuine cultural exchange. Through connections made via my contracting work, we were invited to a community gathering where my son experienced traditional Marshallese dancing, storytelling, and food preparation. The children on Ebeye quickly adopted him into their games, language barriers dissolving through play.

One afternoon, we joined a local family who showed us how they weave pandanus leaves into mats and baskets—a craft that reminds me of the attention to detail I value in historical renovations. For these activities, my son and I both wore our UV protection shirts which provided essential sun protection while keeping us cool in the intense equatorial heat.

Food on Ebeye reflects both traditional Marshallese cuisine and the reality of imported goods. Fresh fish is abundant, often served with rice and local produce. The coconut plays a central role in many dishes, used at various stages of ripeness. We brought our portable water filter which proved essential as clean drinking water can be limited on the island.

The Marshall Islands sit at the frontline of climate change, making Ebeye an unexpectedly powerful classroom for environmental education. My son and I spent one morning with a local teacher who explained how rising sea levels and changing weather patterns are already affecting daily life. The concrete sea walls and frequent flooding tell a story that no textbook could convey so vividly.

For a day of adventure, we arranged a boat trip to a nearby uninhabited island with a local guide. The contrast between Ebeye's density and the pristine beach was striking. Here, we snorkeled among vibrant coral gardens that somehow persist despite environmental challenges. For this excursion, our dry bag protected our essentials while allowing us to fully enjoy the water.

The highlight came when our guide demonstrated traditional fishing techniques, showing my son how to spot certain fish and move quietly through shallow waters. That evening, we cooked our catch over a small fire, the simplicity of the meal making it unforgettable. Throughout our water adventures, my underwater action camera captured moments that continue to spark conversations about marine conservation back home in Texas.

Let's be candid—accommodations on Ebeye are extremely limited and basic. Most visitors stay on Kwajalein if they have access permits, or on the main island of Majuro, making day trips. We were fortunate to be hosted by a local family in their modest home, an arrangement made through my professional connections.

If you're planning a family trip to the Marshall Islands with Ebeye as a component, I recommend basing yourself on Majuro where there are proper hotels, then spending just 2-3 days exploring Ebeye and surrounding areas. For our homestay experience, I brought travel sheet liners which provided comfort while respecting our hosts' hospitality.

Internet connectivity is spotty at best. I found a local SIM card provided better service than international roaming, though expectations should be managed. Our portable power station became the family's most valued possession, allowing us to keep communication devices charged during frequent power outages.

As for transportation around Ebeye itself, the island is small enough to navigate on foot, though be prepared for uneven paths and limited shade. The locals are incredibly helpful with directions, and the community feeling means you're never truly lost.