48 Hours in Fort Worth: The Ultimate Texas Weekend City Guide

Our Fort Worth adventure began where the city itself did—at the historic Stockyards National Historic District. Arriving just before 11:30 am proved perfect timing for witnessing the Fort Worth Herd cattle drive, a twice-daily tradition that never fails to transport you back to the 1800s. The longhorn steers ambling down Exchange Avenue under the guidance of authentic cowboys creates a time-warp experience that even this Australian, accustomed to vast cattle stations back home, found impressive.

After the drive, we wandered through the district's wooden boardwalks, ducking into shops selling everything from handcrafted leather goods to authentic cowboy boots. Having spent decades in hiking boots traversing volcanic terrain, I've developed a healthy appreciation for quality footwear, and the craftsmanship at M.L. Leddy's was nothing short of extraordinary. If you're in the market for boots that'll last generations, this is your place.

For lunch, we settled at Lonesome Dove Western Bistro, Chef Tim Love's flagship restaurant. The kangaroo carpaccio appetizer gave me a humorous taste of home, though I assured Elaine we don't typically eat our national emblem in Australia. The wild boar ribs, however, were a revelation worth crossing continents for.

As evening approached, we joined the crowds at Billy Bob's Texas, self-proclaimed as the world's largest honky-tonk. Even for someone like me who typically prefers the quiet of forest trails to crowded venues, the authentic Texas line dancing and live country music created an atmosphere that was impossible to resist. Elaine, despite her initial reluctance, found herself being guided through a two-step by a patient local—a moment I captured with my trusty travel camera, which handles low-light venues surprisingly well.

After a hearty Texan breakfast at Paris Coffee Shop (their biscuits and gravy would fuel even the most demanding bushwalk), we headed to Fort Worth's Cultural District, home to five world-class museums within walking distance of each other. The geological formations I've studied throughout my career have often inspired artistic expression, so the intersection of nature and art always fascinates me.

We started at the Kimbell Art Museum, housed in a building that's as much a masterpiece as the collections inside. The natural light filtering through the curved ceilings reminded me of the way sunlight plays through the tree canopy in the Canadian forests where I now work. The museum's collection may be smaller than some, but its quality is unmatched—from Michelangelo to Monet.

Next door, the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth provided a striking contrast with its contemporary collection housed in a stunning glass and concrete building seemingly floating on water. As someone who's spent decades interpreting landscapes for visitors, I appreciated how the architecture itself frames the surrounding environment.

For families visiting, I'd highly recommend the Fort Worth Museum of Science and History. Their DinoLabs exhibit would have captivated my daughter during our homeschooling travels years ago. The hands-on geology displays explaining local formations are particularly well-done—something this former volcanic specialist can genuinely appreciate.

Before lunch, we made a quick stop at the National Cowgirl Museum and Hall of Fame, which tells the often-overlooked stories of women who shaped the American West. Coming from a country with our own frontier history, I found the parallels between American and Australian pioneer women fascinating.

After a museum-filled morning, we sought a green respite at the Fort Worth Botanic Garden. As a forest ranger, I'm drawn to cultivated gardens almost as much as wilderness—they offer fascinating insights into how humans interpret and organize nature. The 110-acre garden features over 2,500 species of plants, but it was the Japanese Garden that truly captured our attention.

Elaine, with her ceramics background, was immediately drawn to the traditional elements—stone lanterns, meticulously pruned trees, and the integration of water features. Having spent time in Japan studying their volcanic regions, I found myself explaining to a curious couple nearby how Japanese garden design often mimics natural landscapes in miniature, including representations of mountains (volcanoes) and flowing water.

We spent a peaceful hour photographing the koi ponds and moon bridges with my telephoto lens, which has become indispensable for capturing both wildlife and landscape details during our travels.

As afternoon stretched toward evening, we made our way to Sundance Square, the heart of downtown Fort Worth. This 35-block shopping and entertainment district feels surprisingly intimate for a city this size. The pedestrian-friendly plaza with its dancing fountains creates a communal atmosphere that reminded me of European squares more than typical American downtowns.

We browsed local shops, including Maker Goods, where Elaine found hand-thrown pottery from Texas artisans that now sits proudly alongside her own work in our Calgary home. For dinner, we chose Grace, where the sophisticated Texas cuisine—particularly the bison ribeye—provided a perfect contrast to our more traditional Stockyards meal the previous day.

As night fell, the square came alive with lights and the gentle buzz of conversation from restaurant patios. Unlike the adrenaline-fueled atmosphere of the Stockyards, Sundance Square offers a more relaxed cultural immersion that feels equally authentic to Fort Worth's character.

Before departing on our final morning, we made time for something that speaks to my ranger soul—connecting with the natural landscape that shapes a region's character. Fort Worth may be known for cowboys and culture, but its relationship with the Trinity River provides insight into the geological forces that made this area habitable long before cattle drives.

We rose early to explore part of the Trinity Trails, a 100+ mile network of paths following the river through the city. As we cycled along the limestone outcroppings, I couldn't help but explain to Elaine how these formations date back to the Cretaceous period when much of Texas was covered by shallow seas. The fossils visible in some exposed sections tell stories of ancient marine ecosystems that existed millions of years before the first human settlements.

For our ride, I was grateful for my hydration pack, which has accompanied me from Australian bushland to Canadian forests and now Texan river trails. The morning temperature was already climbing toward 30°C (86°F), reminding us that adequate water is essential in this climate.

Our final stop was the Fort Worth Nature Center & Refuge, where we hiked through tallgrass prairie—an increasingly rare ecosystem that once covered vast stretches of North America. As someone who's dedicated his life to helping people understand natural landscapes, I was impressed by the center's educational approach. Their bison herd serves as both conservation effort and living history, connecting visitors to the land as it existed before European settlement.

Standing on the prairie observation deck, watching the morning light play across the grasses, I felt a familiar contentment. Whether it's a volcanic caldera in New Zealand, a forest grove in Alberta, or this restored prairie in Texas, there's something profoundly connecting about witnessing landscapes that remain true to their essential character. Fort Worth, with its blend of cultural preservation and natural conservation, understands this balance better than most urban centers I've visited.

Accommodations in Fort Worth range from historic hotels to modern chains, but we opted for something with character—the Stockyards Hotel. Dating back to 1907, this property has hosted everyone from cattle barons to bank robbers (including Bonnie and Clyde, whose room you can actually book).

Our corner room featured authentic Western decor that somehow avoided crossing into kitsch territory—think leather chairs, cowhide accents, and vintage photographs of the Stockyards in their heyday. The wooden floors creaked with history, reminding me of colonial-era buildings in parts of Australia.

Location-wise, you can't beat being in the heart of the Stockyards district. The ability to walk to attractions and return for a midday rest proved invaluable in the Texas heat. The hotel's H3 Ranch restaurant serves respectable steaks, though we preferred exploring other dining options.

For those preferring modern amenities, The Worthington Renaissance Fort Worth Hotel offers upscale accommodations downtown near Sundance Square. Its soaring atrium lobby impressed us when we stopped in for a drink at its Toro Toro restaurant.

Budget-conscious travelers might consider the Courtyard Fort Worth at Alliance Town Center, which offers reasonable rates and is still just a 15-minute drive from most attractions.

Whichever accommodation you choose, I'd recommend packing a sleep mask if you're sensitive to light. Texas hotel curtains aren't always as robust as one might hope, and those beautiful early morning sunrises come quite early in summer months.