Cycling Through History: Battlefield Routes and Nature Trails Around Ypres

Ypres (or Ieper, as the locals call it) makes an ideal base for battlefield cycling, with rental shops right in the town center offering everything from basic city bikes to rugged trail models. I rented from Fiets Paradise near the Grote Markt for €15 per day—a bargain considering the freedom it provided.

Before setting out, I downloaded the Ypres Salient cycling map app, which proved invaluable when my sense of direction failed me (as it invariably does after the second Belgian beer). The area offers several well-marked routes ranging from the leisurely 20km 'Peace Route' to the more challenging 45km 'Passchendaele Circuit.'

Packing light is essential, but don't skimp on rain gear. My packable rain jacket saved me during an unexpected afternoon shower—Belgium's weather changes faster than I can devour a chocolate croissant. I also recommend sturdy cycling gloves and a small handlebar bag for essentials, snacks, and the inevitable chocolate purchases.

My first cycling route began after witnessing the Last Post ceremony at the Menin Gate—a nightly ritual honoring the fallen that's been performed since 1928 (with the exception of the German occupation years). Setting out early the next morning, I followed the memorial route that winds past Hellfire Corner toward Hill 62.

The morning mist hanging over the landscape created an almost ethereal quality as I pedaled past farm fields where artillery once thundered. Every few kilometers, small Commonwealth war cemeteries appeared like solemn islands amid the green expanse. These meticulously maintained grounds, with their uniform white headstones, offer peaceful places for reflection.

At the Hooge Crater Museum, I paused to explore the recreated trenches and remarkable collection of war artifacts. The museum café provided a welcome coffee break and the chance to chat with a local historian who pointed me toward several hidden bunkers not on my map.

Cycling this route requires intermediate stamina—not for the distance (about 30km round-trip) but for the rolling hills that punctuate the otherwise flat terrain. My hydration backpack proved essential, especially when the spring sun emerged in full force.

One unexpected joy of cycling the Ypres countryside is discovering the region's culinary treasures. After a morning navigating the solemnity of war sites, I found myself craving both sustenance and something to lift my spirits.

In the tiny village of Watou, just north of Ypres, I discovered St. Bernardus Brewery—a former cheese factory with connections to the Trappist monks of Westvleteren. Their abbey-style beers proved the perfect reward after 25km of cycling. The brewery tour costs €15 and includes tastings, though I limited myself knowing I had to navigate back to Ypres!

But the true revelation came in the form of a countryside bakery near Zonnebeke. Tucked behind an unassuming farmhouse facade, Bakkerij Verstraete produces the most extraordinary pastries I've encountered outside of Paris. The owner—a third-generation baker—still uses recipes that fed Belgian soldiers during WWI. His speculoos cookies became my cycling fuel for the remainder of the trip.

For picnic supplies, I filled my insulated food container with local cheeses and preserves from the Thursday market in Ypres' main square. Nothing tastes better than local Gouda and fresh bread enjoyed beside a peaceful canal that once marked the front lines.

The most surprising aspect of cycling around Ypres is witnessing how thoroughly nature has reclaimed these battle-scarred lands. The aptly named Peace Route (Vredesroute) showcases this regeneration, winding through forests and wetlands that were once decimated by artillery fire.

The route follows the Palingbeek, a never-completed canal that became a strategic position during the war. Today, it's a verdant corridor where kingfishers dart across the water and wildflowers blanket former trenches. I stopped frequently to photograph butterflies resting on concrete bunkers—nature's poetry written across the remnants of war.

At Bellewaerde Ridge, I locked my bike to explore the network of preserved trenches on foot. The morning dew had soaked the grass, and I was grateful for my waterproof hiking shoes as I navigated the muddy paths. These comfortable shoes have accompanied me from Patagonian trails to Ukrainian church steps, never letting me down when terrain turns challenging.

The Peace Route also passes several reconstructed farmhouses where interpretive signs explain how local families returned after the war to rebuild. One such farm now operates as a cheese producer, offering samples and fresh buttermilk to passing cyclists. The elderly owner shared stories passed down from her grandmother about returning to find nothing but shell holes where their home once stood.