Safari Adventure Guide: Tracking the Big Five in Chobe National Park

After researching African safari destinations for months (those slow night shifts at the correctional facility are good for something!), I kept coming back to Chobe National Park. With the highest concentration of elephants in Africa—upwards of 120,000 gentle giants—and all members of the coveted Big Five within its borders, Chobe promised the wildlife encounters I'd dreamed about since flipping through National Geographic magazines as a kid.

What sets Chobe apart is its stunning diversity. The park transitions from lush floodplains along the Chobe River to dense woodland and open grasslands. This variety of ecosystems means you're never seeing the same landscape twice, and each game drive brings entirely different wildlife opportunities.

While I typically travel with my kids in tow, this solo adventure allowed me to fully immerse myself in the experience without dividing my attention. That said, I was surprised by how many families I encountered at the luxury lodges. Several parents shared that Chobe was their children's first safari experience, as the park is more accessible than some remote reserves while still offering incredible wildlife density.

I splurged on a private guide for my week-long stay, which I cannot recommend highly enough. My guide Jackson had 15 years of experience and eyes like a hawk—spotting a leopard draped over a branch that I would have missed entirely even with my binoculars. The knowledge these local guides share transforms what could be just animal sightings into a deeper understanding of the complex ecosystem.

After spending my workdays in the stark environment of a correctional facility, I decided this trip would be all about balance—wild adventure by day, pampered comfort by night. I split my week between two luxury lodges: Chobe Game Lodge inside the national park and Ngoma Safari Lodge on the park's western boundary.

Chobe Game Lodge surprised me with its blend of elegance and sustainability. As the only permanent lodge within the national park itself, it offers unparalleled access to wildlife. I'd wake to the sounds of hippos grunting in the river just beyond my private terrace. The all-female guiding team (a pioneering initiative called the Chobe Angels) brought a unique perspective to game drives, focusing on animal behavior and ecosystem relationships rather than just checking species off a list.

At Ngoma Safari Lodge, perched on an escarpment overlooking the Chobe River floodplains, I experienced some of the most spectacular sunsets of my life. My suite featured a private plunge pool where I could soak while watching elephants and buffalo graze below. After months of planning other people's meals and activities as a mom, having someone anticipate my needs felt like pure luxury.

Both lodges included all meals, drinks, and daily activities in their rates. While the price tag initially made me wince (we're talking $800-1,200 per night), the all-inclusive nature meant I could fully relax without constantly reaching for my wallet. Plus, falling asleep to the distant roars of lions while wrapped in high-thread-count sheets? Priceless.

One piece of gear that proved invaluable was my portable power bank. Despite the lodges' solar power systems, having backup power for my camera and phone during all-day game drives kept me from missing any photographic moments.

The daily rhythm of safari life quickly became my new favorite routine. Early morning wake-up calls (typically around 5:30 AM) were made bearable by the delivery of fresh coffee to my door. By sunrise, we'd be out in open-sided safari vehicles, wrapped in warm blankets against the morning chill, watching the savanna come alive.

Chobe's game drives delivered wildlife sightings that exceeded my wildest expectations. Within my first two days, I'd already spotted four of the Big Five: elephants (by the hundreds), buffalo (in imposing herds), lions (including adorable cubs), and leopards (two different individuals). Only the rhino remained elusive—their numbers are sadly diminished due to poaching, though conservation efforts are helping populations recover.

Beyond the famous five, Chobe offered incredible diversity. Giraffes moved with surprising grace despite their awkward proportions. Zebras gathered in dazzling groups (yes, a group of zebras is actually called a 'dazzle'—fitting, isn't it?). Hippos revealed their massive forms during river cruises, and crocodiles sunned themselves along muddy banks.

As someone who spends her working hours maintaining order and vigilance, I found it fascinating to observe the natural order of the savanna—predator and prey, birth and death, all playing out according to ancient rhythms undisturbed by human intervention.

One afternoon, we followed a pride of lions for hours. The guides' tracking skills were nothing short of magical as they interpreted subtle paw prints and broken grass stems. Eventually, we witnessed an incredible hunting sequence as the lionesses strategically surrounded a warthog. While I won't share the graphic details, witnessing this raw, unfiltered moment of nature was humbling in a way I struggle to articulate.

My safari jacket was perfect for the temperature fluctuations between cool mornings and hot afternoons. I could zip up for dawn game drives and remove layers as the day warmed.

While land-based game drives form the backbone of most safari experiences, Chobe's river safaris were what truly distinguished this park from others I researched. The Chobe River forms the northern boundary of the park, creating a lifeline for wildlife during the dry season when inland water sources evaporate.

Each afternoon around 3:30 PM, I'd board a specialized photography boat with swivel seats and camera mounts (heaven for photography enthusiasts like me). As we cruised along the river, wildlife encounters took on a completely different dimension. Elephants waded into the water, playfully spraying each other and submerging until only their trunks remained visible like natural snorkels. Entire families of hippos revealed their massive bodies, and the birdlife was simply spectacular—African fish eagles, kingfishers, bee-eaters, and herons in every color imaginable.

What made these river cruises particularly magical was the golden afternoon light reflecting off the water. As a correctional officer who spends most days under fluorescent lighting, this natural golden glow felt like medicine for my soul. I found myself lowering my camera at times just to be fully present in these moments.

One unforgettable evening, we witnessed a massive elephant herd—at least 200 individuals—crossing the river at sunset. Babies were nestled between adults for protection, their tiny trunks held high above the water. Our guide cut the engine, and we drifted silently, watching this ancient ritual unfold. The only sounds were elephant rumbles, water splashing, and the occasional gasp from someone on our boat. It was one of those rare moments when you're acutely aware you're experiencing something extraordinary.

My waterproof camera proved invaluable during these river safaris. The boat's proximity to the water meant occasional splashes, and being able to shoot without worrying about damaging my equipment let me focus entirely on capturing those magical moments.

While Chobe's wildlife rightfully takes center stage, some of my most meaningful moments came through cultural connections with the Botswanan people. Many luxury lodges partner with nearby communities, creating sustainable tourism models that benefit local residents.

Through my lodge, I arranged a community visit to the nearby village of Mabele. Unlike some contrived cultural tourism experiences I've encountered elsewhere, this felt genuine and respectful. I spent a morning with a local family, learning about traditional fishing techniques and helping prepare lunch using local ingredients. The grandmother of the household showed me how they've adapted traditional basket weaving patterns for modern markets, creating sustainable income sources.

As someone who works in a correctional facility, I'm acutely aware of how socioeconomic factors impact communities. It was refreshing to see tourism models that prioritize community benefit and environmental conservation working so effectively in Chobe.

My guides also shared fascinating insights about how their traditional knowledge informs their work. Jackson explained how tracking skills passed down through generations help him locate animals, and how indigenous plant knowledge helps identify where certain species might be feeding.

One evening, lodge staff performed traditional songs and dances after dinner. What started as a performance for guests evolved into a genuine celebration when staff members spontaneously joined in. Soon, guests were being taught dance moves, and the artificial barrier between 'visitor' and 'local' dissolved into shared laughter and rhythm.

I always try to learn a few phrases in the local language when traveling. In Botswana, simple Setswana greetings like 'Dumela' (hello) and 'Ke a leboga' (thank you) were met with appreciative smiles and often led to deeper conversations about our respective cultures.