Getting to Petra: Complete Transportation Guide from Amman to the Rose City

Having tested nearly every transportation option to Petra over my five visits to Jordan, I can state with clinical certainty that hiring a private car offers the optimal combination of efficiency, comfort, and flexibility for groups. The direct route from Amman to Petra takes approximately 3 hours via the Desert Highway, though I highly recommend the slightly longer King's Highway route for its spectacular scenery and historical significance.

On my most recent journey with three fellow physicians, we split the cost of a private car service (approximately 70-90 JOD one-way), making it surprisingly economical at roughly 20 JOD per person. Our driver, arranged through our Amman hotel, provided fascinating cultural context throughout the journey that no guidebook could offer. The vehicle itself was a spacious, well-maintained SUV with excellent air conditioning—a critical feature when traveling through Jordan's desert climate.

The true value of private transportation emerged when we spontaneously decided to stop at key sites along the King's Highway—including the breathtaking Wadi Mujib canyon (Jordan's Grand Canyon), the Byzantine mosaics at Madaba, and Mount Nebo, where Moses purportedly viewed the Promised Land. These impromptu explorations transformed what could have been merely a transit day into one of our journey's highlights.

For groups of 3-5 people, this option often proves more economical than multiple bus tickets while offering exponentially greater convenience. The ability to stop for photographs, restroom breaks, or simply to absorb the landscape at your own pace is invaluable—particularly for those who, like me, find these transition periods between destinations essential for mental decompression.

For travelers operating on a more constrained budget (as I was during my residency days), the JETT bus service provides a reliable and economical alternative. The Jordan Express Tourist Transportation company operates daily buses from Amman to Petra for approximately 11 JOD per person each way—a significant saving compared to private transport.

These buses depart from the JETT terminal in Amman (located in Abdali) at 6:30 AM, arriving at Petra's visitor center around 10:30 AM. The return journey leaves Petra at 5:00 PM, which gives you ample time for a day visit. However, I strongly recommend spending at least one night near Petra to fully appreciate the site without rushing—a lesson I learned the hard way on my first visit when I attempted the day trip and left feeling I'd only scratched the surface.

The JETT buses themselves are surprisingly comfortable, featuring air conditioning, reclining seats, and usually offering complimentary water. On my second trip to Jordan, I traveled solo via JETT and found the experience perfectly adequate, if somewhat lacking in flexibility. The buses make a single rest stop halfway through the journey, allowing for a quick break and refreshments.

One critical piece of advice: secure your JETT tickets at least 2-3 days in advance, especially during peak season. These buses frequently sell out, and I've witnessed the disappointment of travelers who arrived at the terminal only to find no available seats. You can purchase tickets directly from the JETT office in Amman or through most hotels and tourism offices for a small service fee.

For longer stays in Jordan, I've found the Jordan Lonely Planet invaluable for understanding bus schedules and planning transportation between multiple sites. The book's detailed information saved me countless hours of research and potential frustration.

For those who value autonomy above all else, driving yourself to Petra presents a viable option—though one that comes with distinct considerations. During my third visit to Jordan, I opted to rent a car in Amman and drive the King's Highway route to Petra, an experience that offered unparalleled freedom but required significant navigation skills.

Renting a compact car costs approximately 35-50 JOD per day from major agencies at Queen Alia International Airport. The Desert Highway (Highway 15) provides the most direct route to Petra, while the King's Highway offers superior scenery but adds about 90 minutes to the journey. Road conditions on both routes are generally good, though occasional potholes and limited signage in English can present challenges.

Jordan drives on the right side of the road, making the transition relatively seamless for North American and European drivers. However, local driving habits can be considerably more aggressive than what you might be accustomed to, particularly in and around Amman. Once outside the capital, traffic thins dramatically, and the drive becomes quite pleasant.

Navigation presents the greatest challenge. While I consider myself directionally adept (a skill honed during my surgical training), I found myself occasionally confused by roundabouts and poorly marked exits. A reliable GPS device proved essential, as mobile reception can be spotty in remote areas. Alternatively, downloading offline maps to your smartphone before departure is highly recommended.

Parking near Petra's visitor center costs approximately 2 JOD per day. The lot is generally secure, though I advise removing all valuables from the vehicle. The freedom to depart Petra on your own schedule and potentially explore nearby attractions like Little Petra or the scenic road to Wadi Rum makes the rental option particularly appealing for groups with limited time but diverse interests.

For groups seeking comprehensive context alongside convenient transportation, organized tours offer a compelling option. During my fourth visit to Jordan, when accompanied by colleagues from a medical conference, we opted for a guided day tour from Amman to Petra. This experience provided valuable historical and cultural insights that enhanced our appreciation of the site immeasurably.

Day tours typically depart Amman around 7:00 AM, returning by 8:00 PM, and cost between 70-100 JOD per person. This price generally includes round-trip transportation in an air-conditioned vehicle, entrance fees to Petra (normally 50 JOD), an English-speaking guide, and sometimes lunch. While this represents the most expensive transportation option, the inclusion of entrance fees and expert guidance offers reasonable value.

The primary advantage of guided tours is the educational component. Our guide possessed an archaeology background and provided fascinating insights into Nabataean medical practices that particularly resonated with our group of healthcare professionals. This layer of interpretation transformed our experience from mere sightseeing to profound cultural understanding.

The disadvantage, predictably, is reduced flexibility. Our tour allocated approximately four hours within Petra itself—sufficient to see the Treasury, Monastery, and main street, but inadequate for exploring the site's more remote areas. The fixed departure time also prevented us from experiencing Petra at sunset, which I'd highly recommend based on previous visits.

For those planning to photograph Petra's remarkable structures, I suggest bringing a portable tripod. The challenging lighting conditions within Petra's narrow siq and the dramatic contrast between shadow and sunlight make stabilization essential for capturing quality images, particularly during the magical golden hour.

For the budget-conscious traveler with abundant time and patience, local public transportation presents the most economical—if challenging—route to Petra. During my initial visit to Jordan as a medical resident on a limited budget, I navigated this complex system out of necessity rather than choice.

The journey requires multiple segments: first, take a local bus from Amman's South Bus Station (Mujamma Al-Janoob) to the city of Ma'an (approximately 3-4 hours, 5-7 JOD). From Ma'an, you'll need to find a second local bus or shared taxi to Wadi Musa, the town adjacent to Petra (approximately 45 minutes, 1-2 JOD).

This option presents significant challenges. Local buses depart only when full, making schedules unpredictable. Signage is primarily in Arabic, and few drivers speak English. The vehicles themselves lack air conditioning and can be uncomfortably crowded. Additionally, the South Bus Station is located far from Amman's tourist center, requiring a taxi journey in itself.

Despite these drawbacks, public transportation offers an unfiltered glimpse into local life that more comfortable options cannot provide. During my journey, I shared a bus with Jordanian families, Bedouin traders, and workers commuting between cities. These interactions—however limited by language barriers—provided cultural insights no guided tour could offer.

For those attempting this route, I strongly recommend carrying a universal power bank to keep your devices charged throughout the unpredictable journey. Cell phone battery life becomes a critical safety concern when navigating unfamiliar transportation systems, particularly for documenting your journey and accessing translation apps.

Ultimately, while I value the authenticity of this experience in retrospect, I wouldn't recommend public transportation for most travelers, particularly groups with limited time or those prioritizing comfort. The complexity and unpredictability of connections make this option better suited to solo backpackers with flexible itineraries.