Navigating Dhaka's Chaotic Transport: A Survival Guide to Bangladesh's Capital

First things first: abandon all expectations of orderly transit. Dhaka consistently ranks among the world's most congested cities, and with good reason. The metropolis crams over 21 million souls into a space that simply wasn't designed for modern transport volumes.

During my week there last December, I witnessed traffic jams that lasted hours, where vehicles were so tightly packed that pedestrians could cross major roads by simply stepping from roof to roof. I'm only half-joking, mates.

The key to mental survival is accepting that time is a flexible concept here. That 3-mile journey to your meeting? Could be 20 minutes, could be 2 hours. The locals call it 'Dhaka time'—a philosophical approach to punctuality that business travelers must quickly adopt.

I found having a reliable power bank absolutely essential. When you're stuck in traffic for unpredictable stretches, keeping your devices charged means you can continue working, rearrange meetings, or simply distract yourself with a good podcast.

Cycle rickshaws are to Dhaka what black cabs are to London—iconic, omnipresent, and often your best bet for short hops. These colorful three-wheeled chariots, pedaled by impressively strong drivers, can weave through gaps in traffic that would make a mouse feel claustrophobic.

During my stay, I quickly learned to appreciate these humble vehicles. When a business meeting in Gulshan ran late and I needed to reach Banani before another appointment, my rickshaw driver navigated alleyways and shortcuts I'd never have found on any map.

A few pointers on rickshaw etiquette: always negotiate the fare before getting in. My first ride, I naively hopped aboard without discussion and ended up paying triple the going rate. Typical prices range from 30-100 taka (£0.25-£0.80) depending on distance. If you're terrible with directions like me, I recommend using the GPS tracker to mark your hotel or meeting location. Simply tag your destination before setting off, and you'll never struggle to find your way back.

For the love of all things sacred, hold on tight! These contraptions have suspension systems that date back to the Mesozoic era, and Dhaka's roads have potholes that could swallow a small car.

CNGs (Compressed Natural Gas auto-rickshaws) are Dhaka's answer to the tuk-tuks you might know from Thailand or India. These green three-wheeled contraptions run on compressed natural gas—hence the name—and offer a step up from cycle rickshaws for medium-distance journeys.

I found CNGs particularly useful for distances between 2-5 kilometers. They're faster than cycle rickshaws, cheaper than cars, and their compact size means they can navigate through tight spots in traffic jams.

Fair warning though: riding in a CNG is not for the faint-hearted! The open sides offer little protection from Dhaka's pollution, and the drivers have a rather... creative interpretation of road rules. After my first white-knuckle journey, I invested in a pollution mask which was an absolute godsend. The washable, military-grade filtration system protected my lungs from the worst of the exhaust fumes while still allowing comfortable breathing.

Like rickshaws, always negotiate the fare beforehand. Expect to pay between 100-300 taka (£0.80-£2.40) depending on distance. If you're staying in Dhaka for business, consider downloading the Pathao or Uber app, which allows you to book auto-rickshaws with fixed prices—a blessing for those of us who dread haggling after a long day of meetings.

If you're in Dhaka on business and value your sanity, ride-sharing apps are your new best friends. Uber operates extensively in Dhaka, alongside local competitors like Pathao and Shohoz.

During my week-long stay, these apps were absolute lifesavers for reaching important meetings on time. The fixed pricing eliminates haggling, the air-conditioned cars provide respite from Dhaka's humidity, and the GPS tracking means drivers can find you even if you can't properly pronounce your location.

One particularly memorable journey was when I needed to reach Dhaka's financial district for an 8am meeting. My hotel concierge warned me that the trip could take anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on traffic. I booked an Uber at 6am, and while we still hit considerable congestion, the driver's local knowledge of shortcuts saved the day.

For business travelers, I cannot recommend the mobile hotspot highly enough. Dhaka's mobile networks can be patchy, and having reliable internet access means you can continue working during those inevitable traffic delays. The G4 Pro worked brilliantly throughout Bangladesh, allowing me to join video calls and send important emails even while stuck in gridlock.

A word to the wise: Dhaka's streets often lack proper signage or numbering, making exact locations difficult. When booking rides, I found it helpful to message the driver with a prominent landmark near my destination.

I've swum in shark-infested waters off Australia's coast, trekked through monsoon-soaked jungles in Thailand, and navigated New York's subway during rush hour. None of these experiences quite prepared me for Dhaka's public bus system.

Let me be crystal clear: Dhaka's buses are not for the faint-hearted or those on tight schedules. They're overcrowded, rarely follow fixed timetables, and the concept of designated stops is more of a gentle suggestion than a rule.

During my stay, I decided—perhaps foolishly—to experience this aspect of local transport. I boarded what locals call a 'local bus' from Mohakhali to Motijheel. The vehicle was so packed that I spent the entire journey standing with one foot on the step, holding onto the doorframe for dear life, while the conductor somehow managed to squeeze through the sardine-can interior collecting fares.

If you're determined to try this authentic experience, a few essentials will make it more bearable. I was thankful for my anti-theft waist pack which kept my valuables secure against my body in the crush. The slash-proof material and RFID blocking features gave me peace of mind in the extremely close quarters.

For those who must use buses, the 'Premium' or 'Sitting Service' buses are marginally better options. These require all passengers to be seated (no standing allowed) and cost slightly more, but offer a considerably more comfortable experience.