Norwegian Splendor: Luxury Train Journey from Oslo to Flam's Fjords

My investigation of Norway's capital began at The Thief hotel in the revitalized Tjuvholmen district, where floor-to-ceiling windows framed views of the Oslo Fjord that shifted with the Arctic summer light. The property's curated art collection rivals the neighboring Astrup Fearnley Museum – no coincidence, as they share the same patron.

My mornings invariably started with a pilgrimage to Tim Wendelboe's eponymous micro-roastery in Grünerløkka. Watching Wendelboe himself meticulously prepare my daily cortado reminded me that true luxury is often found in precision and attention rather than opulence. The beans – single-origin Colombian from Huila – transported me back to my first origin trip years ago.

The evening before departure, I secured a reservation at Maaemo, one of eleven three-Michelin-starred restaurants in Scandinavia. Chef Esben Holmboe Bang's 20+ course exploration of Norwegian terroir was less a meal and more a detailed case file on Norway's culinary identity – each dish a carefully documented exhibit of place and tradition.

Departing Oslo, I settled into my private compartment on the Bergen Railway, having upgraded to NSB Komfort class. The extra investment yields dividends in space, service, and solitude – essential currencies for properly absorbing the transformative landscape.

As Oslo's urbanity recedes, the railway climbs steadily toward Finse, Northern Europe's highest mainline railway station at 1,222 meters. Here, the landscape transitions dramatically to the Hardangervidda plateau – a terrain so otherworldly that NASA astronauts once trained here for moon missions.

The journey demands proper hydration, especially as the altitude increases. I've found the insulated water bottle indispensable – its UV-C LED technology purifies water while the double-wall vacuum insulation keeps beverages at ideal temperature for hours, even as the external climate fluctuates dramatically through mountain passages.

For capturing the rapidly changing scenery, I recommend positioning yourself on the train's left side when heading toward Bergen for optimal fjord views. The lighting conditions shift constantly, so I rely on my light meter to ensure perfect exposure when photographing through the specially designed panoramic windows.

At Myrdal station, I transferred to what many engineers consider the world's most impressive standard-gauge railway achievement: the Flåmsbana (Flam Railway). This 20-kilometer journey descends 866 meters through 20 tunnels, offering a masterclass in precision engineering that would impress even the most exacting Swiss watchmaker.

While most visitors opt for standard seating, I recommend the exclusive Heritage Railway experience, available only once daily during summer months. This restored vintage carriage from 1909 limits capacity to 22 passengers and includes a dedicated guide, champagne service, and strategic photo stops unavailable to regular trains.

During the steepest sections, the train slows considerably, creating perfect conditions for photography. I've found the travel tripod invaluable here – its revolutionary design collapses to the diameter of a water bottle yet provides rock-solid stability for long-exposure shots of waterfalls through the train's windows.

The railway pauses at Kjosfossen waterfall, where according to Norwegian folklore, mythical Huldra (seductive forest creatures) lure travelers. The theatrical performance that takes place here might seem touristy, but I found it a charming homage to Norwegian mythology that contextualizes the almost supernatural beauty of the surroundings.

Arriving in Flam feels like entering nature's cathedral. The village itself is modest, but the surrounding amphitheater of mountains rising dramatically from Aurlandsfjord creates an atmosphere of hushed reverence. I checked into the historic Fretheim Hotel, requesting one of the recently renovated historic wing rooms with balconies overlooking the fjord.

While mass-market cruise ships occasionally dock here, their schedules are predictable. The savvy traveler plans fjord explorations around these arrivals and departures. I arranged a private RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) expedition through the hotel concierge, allowing access to narrow passages of the UNESCO-protected Nærøyfjord that larger vessels cannot navigate.

The fjord water maintains a bracing chill even in summer, but proper gear transforms discomfort into invigorating pleasure. I wore my waterproof jacket over multiple layers, which proved essential when our captain accelerated to 45 knots, sending spray across the bow. For those planning extended time on the water, consider investing in the waterproof gloves – they preserved dexterity for camera operation while keeping my hands functional in the Nordic chill.

After returning from the fjords, I visited Ægir Brewery & Pub, housed in a building that appears transported directly from Viking mythology. Their five-course beer pairing dinner serves as both gastronomic delight and cultural education, with each course connecting traditional Norwegian ingredients to their Norse mythological origins.

My investigative instincts naturally extend to gastronomy, and Norway offers compelling cases to solve. In Oslo, I attended a private workshop at Mathallen Food Hall with chef Andreas Viestad, whose knowledge of Nordic ingredients borders on encyclopedic. Under his guidance, I learned to properly prepare gravlaks, applying precise measurements of salt, sugar, and dill to transform raw salmon through curing rather than heat.

For serious culinary enthusiasts, I recommend packing a spice kit – this precision-engineered pepper mill delivers consistent, adjustable grind sizes that elevate every meal, particularly when working with the delicate flavors of fresh Norwegian seafood.

In Flam, the narrative continues with simpler but equally compelling flavors. At Fretheim Hotel's restaurant, the locally-sourced lamb from surrounding mountain farms demonstrates how terroir applies to protein as much as wine. The animals graze on herbs and grasses found nowhere else, creating a distinctive flavor profile that tells the story of this specific landscape.

For coffee enthusiasts, Norway presents a revelation. The country consumes more coffee per capita than almost anywhere else, and the quality matches the quantity. Even in remote Flam, I discovered baristas approaching coffee preparation with scientific precision, using coffee scale to measure brewing ratios to the tenth of a gram – a level of attention that reminded me of my favorite Valencian cafés.