Royal Treatment: Luxury Experiences in the Sultanate of Brunei

There's luxury, and then there's the Empire Hotel & Country Club—a property so lavish it borders on the surreal. Originally built as a royal palace, this 5-star accommodation sprawls across 180 hectares of oceanfront real estate and represents Brunei's interpretation of six-star hospitality.

As I was escorted through the soaring atrium lobby, the 24-karat gold accents caught the tropical sunlight streaming through massive windows. My deluxe sea-view suite, priced at approximately $350 per night (a relative bargain compared to similar accommodations elsewhere in Asia), featured hand-carved furniture, marble bathrooms with Bvlgari amenities, and a private balcony overlooking the South China Sea.

The analytical side of me couldn't help but calculate the sheer magnitude of resources invested in this property. The Olympic-sized pool contains Italian marble, the golf course was designed by Jack Nicklaus, and even the doorknobs appear to be gold-plated. While the Empire Hotel can feel almost comically opulent at times, it delivers flawlessly on service—the staff-to-guest ratio must be close to 1:1, with attendants materializing precisely when needed and disappearing just as discreetly.

I found myself particularly impressed with their pillow menu, which offered options based on sleep position and firmness preferences. After selecting a cervical support pillow, I slept more soundly than I had in months—a welcome respite for a physician accustomed to erratic call schedules. For capturing those Instagram-worthy lobby shots, I relied on my travel tripod, which was compact enough to fit in my daypack yet sturdy enough for the low-light conditions.

As someone who's documented fermentation techniques across continents, Brunei presented a fascinating paradox. In a strictly alcohol-free nation, how would traditional fermentation processes manifest in local cuisine? The answer lay in the brilliant adaptations of age-old techniques to comply with Islamic dietary laws.

At Kaizen Sushi, located within the Radisson Hotel, I observed how Chef Takashi has mastered halal-compliant fermentation for his fish preparations. Rather than using sake or mirin (as is traditional in Japan), he employs a complex blend of kombu, rice vinegar, and fruit enzymes to achieve umami profiles remarkably similar to conventional aging methods. The resulting otoro (fatty tuna) nigiri offered that same melt-in-your-mouth quality I've experienced in Tokyo's finest establishments.

More revelatory was my discovery of budu, a traditional Malay fermented fish sauce produced in Brunei's coastal villages. At Aminah Arif Restaurant in Gadong, I sampled this intensely flavorful condiment alongside local ambuyat (a starchy staple made from sago palm). The fermentation process involves anchovy, salt, and tamarind in precise proportions, creating a complex flavor enhancer that rivals fish sauces I've documented throughout Southeast Asia.

Perhaps most surprising was my visit to a local producer of non-alcoholic kombucha. Using specialized SCOBY cultures that produce minimal alcohol, they've created a line of sparkling fermented beverages that maintain probiotic benefits while adhering to religious restrictions. I was so impressed that I purchased several bottles to analyze the microbial composition back home, carefully packing them in my travel wine protector to prevent breakage during the flight home.

To comprehend Brunei's particular brand of luxury is to understand its monarchy—one of the world's longest continuous royal lines and among its wealthiest. The Royal Regalia Museum in downtown Bandar Seri Begawan offers precisely this education, housing an astonishing collection of gifts, artifacts, and ceremonial objects related to Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah's reign.

Upon entering, visitors must remove their shoes—an equalizing gesture before witnessing such concentrated opulence. The centerpiece is a replica of the throne used during the Sultan's coronation, surrounded by regalia that would make European monarchies appear austere by comparison. The gold-plated ceremonial chariot that carried the Sultan during his 1968 coronation dominates the central hall, its intricate craftsmanship suggesting countless hours of artisanal labor.

As a scientist, I found myself particularly drawn to the collection of diplomatic gifts from world leaders. These artifacts—ranging from intricate Chinese cloisonné to NASA space memorabilia—form a material timeline of international relations. The museum's meticulous climate control systems (maintaining precise temperature and humidity levels) reflect the scientific precision applied to preservation.

Most fascinating was the display of the Sultan's personal effects, including his collection of custom-made pens and writing instruments. As someone who appreciates precision instruments in my own profession, I could relate to the Sultan's apparent affinity for these tools. I documented the museum's incredible details using my compact camera, which performed admirably in the museum's carefully controlled lighting conditions.

Perhaps the most authentic luxury Brunei offers isn't gold-plated or crystal-encrusted, but rather found in its remarkably preserved natural environments. Ulu Temburong National Park, often called the 'Green Jewel of Brunei,' represents a conservation triumph in a region otherwise plagued by deforestation.

My journey to this ecological sanctuary began with a speedboat from the water village of Bandar, followed by a longboat journey upriver. While Brunei offers helicopter transfers for the ultra-wealthy, I found the traditional approach more enriching from both scientific and experiential perspectives.

I stayed at the Ulu Ulu Resort, the park's sole accommodation option, where eco-luxury manifests as thoughtfully designed chalets built on stilts above the forest floor. The resort's commitment to sustainability is evident in everything from its solar power systems to the locally sourced cuisine. My riverside chalet featured floor-to-ceiling windows that transformed the rainforest into living wallpaper, with the gentle sounds of the Temburong River providing nature's soundtrack.

The highlight was undoubtedly the canopy walkway, accessed via a challenging climb up 1,226 steps (my fitness tracker registered this as equivalent to climbing a 42-story building). The reward—a steel walkway suspended 50 meters above the forest floor—offered unparalleled access to the rainforest canopy ecosystem. As dawn broke, I observed proboscis monkeys, hornbills, and countless other species from this privileged vantage point.

For the early morning canopy walk, my binoculars proved invaluable for spotting wildlife in the dense foliage. Their waterproof construction handled the morning humidity perfectly while providing exceptional clarity for identifying bird species.

From a scientific perspective, what makes Temburong remarkable is its intact ecological systems. Unlike many 'nature experiences' in Southeast Asia, this isn't a curated or rehabilitated environment but rather a pristine ecosystem functioning largely as it has for millennia.

As someone who documents speakeasy culture worldwide, I approached Brunei with tempered expectations. How could a nation with a complete alcohol prohibition possibly satisfy my interest in craft beverage culture? The answer materialized in an unexpected parallel universe of sophisticated mocktail establishments that rival their alcoholic counterparts in creativity and technique.

My exploration began at Piccolo Café, an unassuming establishment in the Kiulap district. Behind its conventional café façade lies a secret menu of complex, non-alcoholic concoctions that employ techniques borrowed from molecular gastronomy. The 'Smoked Pandan Sour'—featuring clarified pandan extract, house-made citrus shrub, and egg white foam topped with aromatic betel leaf smoke—demonstrated technical prowess that would impress bartenders anywhere.

More revelatory was my discovery of RBC (Roasted Bean Company), where I was introduced to their 'fermentation lab.' Here, they produce kombucha, kefir, and various fruit ferments that form the base of their signature drinks. Their 'Preserved Lemon Fizz' combined house-fermented preserved lemons with saffron syrup and cardamom foam—creating flavor complexities typically achieved through aged spirits.

Most impressive was an unmarked location near Jalan Residency that locals simply call 'The Lounge.' Accessed through what appears to be a standard coffee shop, this reservation-only establishment offers a tasting menu of non-alcoholic beverages paired with small plates. The scientific precision applied to their fermentation processes was evident in the consistent quality and complexity of flavors.

From a fermentation scientist's perspective, these establishments have innovated out of necessity, developing techniques to create complexity without alcohol. I documented these methods extensively in my journal, using my trusty fountain pen which has accompanied me through countless tasting notes across five continents.