Tropical Flavors: A Culinary Journey Through Port Vila's Markets and Restaurants

As a plant scientist, markets are always my first stop in any new destination—and Port Vila's central market did not disappoint. Located along the harbor, this vibrant marketplace operates almost 24/7 (closing only on Sundays), with local ni-Vanuatu women presiding over colorful displays of produce that would make any botanist swoon.

The diversity of tropical fruits alone is worth the visit. Massive jackfruits hang alongside bunches of lady finger bananas (much sweeter than the Cavendish varieties we get in the West). I counted at least seven different mango varieties, each with its own distinct flavor profile and fiber content. The soursop (Annona muricata)—a spiky green fruit with creamy white flesh—quickly became my morning ritual, blended into smoothies at my accommodation.

What makes this market particularly special for families is how interactive it can be. Vendors are incredibly generous with samples, encouraging children to taste unfamiliar fruits. One morning, I watched a local woman patiently show a wide-eyed American boy how to eat a rambutan, his delight at discovering the lychee-like fruit inside the hairy red exterior was absolutely priceless.

The market isn't just fruits and vegetables—it's also the place to sample prepared foods. Don't miss the lap-lap, Vanuatu's national dish made from grated root vegetables (usually yam, taro, or manioc) mixed with coconut cream and often chicken or flying fox, all wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in an earth oven. The botanical complexity of this cooking method fascinated me almost as much as the earthy, rich flavors.

Port Vila's waterfront dining scene strikes that perfect balance between kid-friendly accessibility and sophisticated flavors that adults crave. After market mornings, I often found myself gravitating toward the restaurants along the harbor for long, leisurely lunches.

The Beach Bar quickly became my favorite recommendation for families. Located on Mele Beach about 15 minutes from central Port Vila, this open-air restaurant offers something for everyone. While parents sip on their Tusker beers (the local brew) or fresh coconuts, kids can play on the beach just steps away from the dining area. The wood-fired pizzas here feature tropical toppings like local prawns and pineapple, but they also offer familiar options for less adventurous eaters.

For capturing those perfect sunset family photos, I'd recommend packing a quality compact camera that can handle the dramatic light changes as the sun dips below the horizon. The golden hour here transforms simple family meals into magical memories.

L'Houstalet Restaurant represents the French influence on Vanuatu's cuisine (the country was jointly administered by France and Britain until independence in 1980). Despite its upscale reputation, they welcome families and offer a separate children's menu. Their specialty—flying fox (fruit bat)—might sound extreme, but it's actually prepared in a delicious garlic sauce that tames the gamey flavor. My server explained that flying foxes feed exclusively on tropical fruits, giving their meat a uniquely sweet undertone. While parents sample this local delicacy, kids can enjoy familiar French-inspired dishes.

For breakfast with a view, nothing beats Nambawan Café. The open-air seating area overlooks the harbor where cruise ships occasionally dock. Their tropical pancake stack—layered with fresh mango, banana, and passionfruit—fueled several of my cycling adventures around Efate Island.

As a plant scientist, I'm always curious about the journey from garden to plate. In Port Vila, I discovered that cooking classes offer the perfect opportunity for families to learn about local ingredients while creating memorable experiences together.

The highlight of my culinary week was a cooking class at the Eden on the River eco-park, about 20 minutes from Port Vila. This lush botanical garden setting provides the perfect backdrop for learning about Vanuatu's edible plants. Our instructor, Mera, began by taking us through the garden to harvest ingredients—an instant hit with the children in our group who treated it like a treasure hunt.

The class focused on traditional cooking methods, particularly the preparation of lap-lap in an underground earth oven called an 'um'. As someone who studies plant domestication professionally, watching taro and yams being prepared using ancient techniques was fascinating. The children were assigned age-appropriate tasks like wrapping food in banana leaves and coconut frond baskets.

For documenting these immersive cooking experiences, I relied on my waterproof action camera which handled the humid conditions beautifully while capturing time-lapse footage of our earth oven cooking process.

Another family-friendly option is the Port Vila Seafood Market's Saturday cooking demonstrations. Fishermen bring their morning catch directly to the market where local chefs demonstrate how to prepare traditional coconut crab, fish in banana leaves, and other seafood specialties. The best part? These aren't formal classes but casual community gatherings where visitors are welcomed warmly.

For those staying in accommodations with kitchens, I recommend visiting Freshwater Market to purchase ingredients after watching these demonstrations. There's something magical about children helping prepare a meal using techniques they've just learned and ingredients they've selected themselves.

No culinary journey through Port Vila would be complete without mentioning the spectacular array of tropical drinks and desserts that capitalize on the island's abundant fruit harvest. For families, these sweet treats often become the highlight of a meal—especially for younger travelers.

Kava, Vanuatu's traditional ceremonial drink made from the root of the Piper methysticum plant, is culturally significant but definitely not for children (or even many adults) due to its earthy flavor and mild sedative effects. However, Port Vila offers countless family-friendly alternatives that showcase tropical flavors.

At the Nambawan Café, I became slightly obsessed with their fresh coconut smoothies, served in the actual coconut shell and topped with a paper straw—a sustainable touch that aligned perfectly with my environmental values. For kids, they create adorable 'jungle juice' mocktails garnished with tropical flowers and fruit skewers.

One of my botanical discoveries was how versatile the pandanus fruit becomes in local desserts. At Tilly's Restaurant, their pandanus ice cream—a vibrant orange color with a complex flavor somewhere between mango and caramel—became my evening ritual. The owner explained that the fruit requires extensive processing before it becomes edible, making it a true labor of love in Vanuatu cuisine.

For an interactive dessert experience, visit the Lapita Café where they offer a 'build-your-own tropical parfait' station that's particularly popular with families. Children can layer fresh papaya, mango, passionfruit, and coconut cream in glasses, topped with locally made vanilla bean ice cream.

To recreate some of these tropical flavors back home, I purchased a spice collection that includes Vanuatu vanilla and other Pacific island flavors. This has been perfect for infusing my Barcelona cooking with memories of Port Vila's sweet tropical notes.

Don't leave Port Vila without trying the local chocolate! The Vanuatu Chocolate Factory uses cacao grown on the outer islands to create small-batch bars that make perfect gifts. Their factory tour demonstrates the bean-to-bar process and includes generous samples that delight visitors of all ages.

As someone who regularly hosts international visitors at my Barcelona plant nursery, I'm acutely aware of how dietary restrictions can complicate travel. Port Vila presents both challenges and opportunities for families with special dietary needs.

The good news: restaurants in town are increasingly accommodating of dietary restrictions, particularly those catering to tourists. The bad news: language barriers and limited understanding of certain allergies can make communication challenging in more local establishments.

For gluten-free travelers, Port Vila is actually a fantastic destination. Traditional Ni-Vanuatu cuisine relies heavily on root vegetables like taro, yam, and manioc rather than wheat. The national dish, lap-lap, is naturally gluten-free, as are many of the coconut-based sauces and marinades.

Vegetarians will find ample options, especially at the market where plant-based dishes abound. The Au Bon Marché supermarket (there are several locations) stocks imported vegetarian products for self-catering. Vegans face more challenges as coconut cream features prominently in local cuisine, though plant-based alternatives are available at higher-end restaurants.

For families traveling with children who have severe food allergies, I recommend bringing a food allergy translation card in French and English (both widely spoken in Vanuatu). These visual cards clearly communicate specific allergies to kitchen staff without relying on verbal explanation.

One restaurant deserving special mention is Mangoes Resort Restaurant, where the chef personally came to our table to discuss my friend's daughter's nut allergy. He created a modified menu for her and even showed us the separate preparation area they maintain for allergy-sensitive dishes.

For families self-catering, the War Horse Ranch outside Port Vila offers organic, locally grown produce with clear labeling regarding growing practices. Their Saturday farm stand became my go-to for ingredients I could identify with botanical certainty—particularly important for those with specific plant family allergies.