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The gentle rocking of the speedboat lulled me into a trance as we skipped across turquoise waters toward two emerald jewels on the horizon. After years of chasing coastlines around the globe, I'd finally made it to Malaysia's Perhentian Islands – a destination that had lingered on my travel wish list for far too long. As someone who traded corporate burnout for coastal bliss, I've developed a sixth sense for truly special seaside havens. And let me tell you, friends, the moment my feet touched the powdery white sand of Long Beach, I knew these islands were the real deal. Over the next week, I discovered a snorkeler's paradise that somehow remains delightfully under-commercialized despite housing some of Southeast Asia's most accessible and vibrant coral reefs. This isn't just another tropical getaway – it's an affordable underwater wonderland where solo travelers can find both community and solitude beneath the waves.
Getting to Paradise: The Journey to Perhentian Islands
Let's address the obvious first: reaching paradise requires effort. My journey began with a flight to Kuala Lumpur, followed by a domestic hop to Kota Bharu, then a one-hour taxi ride to Kuala Besut jetty. By the time I reached the boat dock, I was questioning my life choices – but that's often the case with truly special places.
From Kuala Besut, speedboats make the crossing to the islands in about 30-45 minutes (depending on sea conditions). I paid 70 Malaysian Ringgit (about $17 USD) for a return ticket, which included the mandatory marine park conservation fee. Pro tip: book your boat ticket online in advance during peak season (June-August), but be prepared for potential schedule changes based on weather.
The boat journey itself offers the perfect transition from mainland life to island time. As the shoreline recedes and the open water embraces you, there's this magical moment when the islands first come into view – two lush green mounds rising from the South China Sea, fringed by rings of white sand and that impossible blue-green water that no camera ever quite captures correctly.
The Perhentians consist of two main islands: Perhentian Besar (Big Island) and Perhentian Kecil (Small Island). As a solo traveler on a budget but still craving comfort, I chose Kecil for its balance of affordability, social atmosphere, and stunning natural beauty. The boat dropped me at Long Beach, where I waded ashore with my waterproof backpack – an investment that proved invaluable throughout the trip.

💡 Pro Tips
- Book your boat transfer online during peak season (June-August)
- Choose Perhentian Kecil for budget options and social atmosphere
- Pack light but include reef-safe sunscreen – you'll be in the water constantly
Budget-Friendly Bliss: Where to Stay on Perhentian Kecil
After years of coastal hopping, I've learned that beachfront doesn't have to mean breaking the bank. Perhentian Kecil offers a refreshing range of accommodation options that won't send your budget into cardiac arrest.
I split my week between two distinctly different stays. First, I spent three nights at Mohsin Chalet on Long Beach – basic but clean wooden bungalows set slightly back from the beach for around 80-100 MYR ($20-25 USD) per night. The shared bathroom was spotlessly maintained, and falling asleep to the sound of gentle waves was worth every penny. For solo female travelers concerned about safety, I found the island extremely secure, with well-lit pathways between accommodations and restaurants.
For the second half of my stay, I treated myself to Bubu Resort, splurging on a sea-facing room (around 300 MYR/$75 USD) with air conditioning that felt absolutely decadent after those first few nights embracing the natural tropical heat. The upgrade gave me a private balcony perfect for morning coffee and journaling while watching the day unfold on Long Beach.
Coral Bay on the opposite side of the island offers quieter, sometimes cheaper options, but the 15-minute jungle trek between beaches can be challenging after dark. I recommend staying on the same beach where you'll spend most of your time.
Regardless of where you stay, electricity runs on generators and may operate only during certain hours. I was grateful for my portable power bank – essential for keeping my phone charged for photos and navigation between snorkeling spots.

💡 Pro Tips
- Book accommodation directly via WhatsApp for better rates
- Request rooms farther from beach bars if you're a light sleeper
- Bring cash – ATMs are nonexistent and many places don't accept cards
Underwater Wonderland: The Best Snorkeling Spots
Let me be clear: I've snorkeled in Hawaii, the Great Barrier Reef, and throughout the Caribbean, but the accessibility and vibrancy of Perhentian's reefs left me genuinely awestruck. The true magic of these islands lies just below the surface.
Shark Point, despite its intimidating name, became my morning ritual. Just a 10-minute swim from Long Beach, this site reliably delivers encounters with blacktip reef sharks. These elegant creatures are completely harmless to humans, and watching them glide effortlessly through the clear water each morning became a form of meditation. The coral here isn't the highlight, but the shark sightings more than compensate.
Turtle Bay lives up to its name with almost guaranteed encounters with green sea turtles. During my second visit, I spent nearly 20 minutes floating alongside a massive turtle as it calmly munched on seagrass, completely unbothered by my presence. The coral formations here create natural underwater architecture that houses countless reef fish.
For the most spectacular coral, Coral Garden between the two islands showcases an underwater explosion of color. Brain coral, fan coral, and countless varieties I couldn't name create a mesmerizing seascape. Schools of parrotfish, butterflyfish, and the occasional humphead wrasse parade through this underwater neighborhood.
I invested in my own full-face snorkel mask before this trip – a game-changer for comfortable breathing and panoramic underwater views. If you forget yours, rental shops dot the beaches offering decent equipment for about 15 MYR ($3.50 USD) per day.
For those new to snorkeling, guided trips run about 60 MYR ($15 USD) and visit 3-4 spots. As a solo traveler, these group excursions provided both safety and social opportunities – I'm still in touch with two wonderful women I met while bonding over sea turtle sightings!


💡 Pro Tips
- Bring an underwater camera or waterproof phone case – you'll want to document everything
- Apply reef-safe sunscreen 30 minutes before entering water to avoid back burns
- Snorkel early morning (7-9am) for calmest waters and best visibility
Island Life: Beyond the Reefs
While underwater exploration dominates days on the Perhentians, island life above the surface has its own gentle rhythm worth embracing. The islands operate on a deliciously slow pace that forces even the most schedule-oriented travelers (guilty!) to surrender to island time.
Mornings on Long Beach offer a serene atmosphere before the day heats up. I developed a routine of early walks along the shoreline, collecting tiny shells and watching fishing boats return with their morning catch. The beach itself is postcard-perfect – powdery white sand meeting crystal clear water so transparent you can spot fish without even getting wet.
For those seeking adventure beyond snorkeling, a jungle trek between Long Beach and Coral Bay takes about 15-20 minutes through dense tropical foliage. The path is well-worn but can be slippery after rain, so wear proper footwear. I made this crossing daily, usually timing it for sunset viewing from Coral Bay's west-facing beach. The contrast between the two beaches – Long Beach's expansive shoreline versus Coral Bay's more sheltered, rocky cove – showcases the island's diverse coastal personality.
Food options cluster around both beaches, with simple restaurants serving Malaysian specialties alongside Western favorites. Prices are higher than mainland Malaysia but still reasonable. My daily food budget averaged about 60-80 MYR ($15-20 USD), including fresh fruit smoothies that became my afternoon ritual. The Hungry Turtle on Long Beach became my go-to spot for their incredible fish curry and million-dollar views.
Evenings bring a laid-back social scene, particularly on Long Beach. Beach bars set up cushions on the sand where travelers gather to share stories under the stars. As a solo traveler, I found it incredibly easy to make connections – there's something about island life that dissolves social barriers. One evening, I joined an impromptu beach cleanup organized by fellow travelers, which turned into a sunset picnic with new friends from five different countries.

💡 Pro Tips
- Bring a headlamp or flashlight for navigating between beaches after dark
- Most restaurants close by 10pm – don't expect late-night dining options
- Respect local customs by covering up when walking through the village areas
Practical Tips for Solo Travelers
As someone who's navigated coastlines worldwide as a solo female traveler, I found the Perhentians refreshingly straightforward and safe. That said, a bit of preparation goes a long way toward ensuring your island experience is nothing but blissful.
Connectivity is limited – and that's part of the charm. Most accommodations offer Wi-Fi, but it's spotty at best. I purchased a Malaysian SIM card at the Kuala Lumpur airport (Maxis Hotlink, about 50 MYR/$12 USD for 10GB) which provided surprisingly decent coverage on the islands. This allowed me to stay connected for safety and share the occasional underwater treasure on social media.
Packing wisely is essential since resupply options are limited and overpriced. Beyond the obvious swimwear and sun protection, I recommend bringing a dry bag for boat trips and beach days. Mine protected my camera, phone and wallet during unexpected afternoon showers and boat transfers. A lightweight, quick-drying microfiber towel also proved invaluable – I used mine daily and it dried quickly in the tropical air.
Cash is king on the islands. There are no ATMs, and most places don't accept cards. I brought Malaysian Ringgit from the mainland, keeping it secure in a hidden money belt and never carrying all my cash at once. Budget approximately 200-300 MYR ($50-75 USD) per day for mid-range accommodation, food, and activities.
Health precautions should include reef-safe sunscreen, basic first aid supplies, and insect repellent for evenings. The islands have small clinics for minor issues, but serious medical concerns require evacuation to the mainland. I always travel with comprehensive insurance that covers emergency evacuation.
For solo female travelers specifically, the islands felt exceptionally safe. The small community means everyone knows everyone, creating a natural security network. That said, I still practiced common-sense precautions like avoiding unlit jungle paths after dark and keeping someone informed of my daily plans, especially for solo snorkeling trips.

💡 Pro Tips
- Download offline maps before arrival – Google Maps works surprisingly well for navigating between beaches
- Bring twice as much sunscreen as you think you need – island prices are triple what you'd pay on the mainland
- Connect with other solo travelers at group dinners organized by guesthouses
Final Thoughts
As my speedboat pulled away from the Perhentian Islands on that final morning, I found myself already planning my return. These islands represent a rare balance that's increasingly difficult to find: accessible yet uncrowded, developed enough for comfort yet wild enough for discovery, and perhaps most importantly for solo travelers – affordable without sacrificing experiences. The underwater world here offers windows into marine ecosystems that remain surprisingly healthy despite global challenges facing coral reefs. If you're a solo traveler with even a passing interest in the underwater world, bump the Perhentians to the top of your list – but perhaps don't tell too many people. Some paradises deserve to stay hidden just a little longer. Until next time, may your travels be salty, sunny, and filled with underwater wonders that remind us why protecting our oceans matters so deeply.
✨ Key Takeaways
- The Perhentian Islands offer world-class snorkeling accessible to all skill levels at budget-friendly prices
- Perhentian Kecil is ideal for solo travelers seeking both community and natural beauty
- Visit during June-August for optimal water clarity and weather conditions
- The islands' limited development is part of their charm – embrace the simplicity and disconnect
📋 Practical Information
Best Time to Visit
June through August (dry season)
Budget Estimate
$40-75 USD per day including accommodation, food and activities
Recommended Duration
5-7 days
Difficulty Level
Intermediate
Comments
dreamrider2856
Those blue-spotted rays look amazing! 😮
journeymate
Just booked my trip for next month after reading this! So excited! Quick question - did you bring your own snorkel gear or rent there? I have my own basic mask but wondering if I should invest in a full-face snorkel mask for this trip. full face snorkel mask Has anyone tried these?
oceanpro634
I'd stick with a traditional mask and snorkel setup. Full-face masks can fog up easily and some resorts are actually banning them due to safety concerns. The rental gear on the islands is decent quality and affordable.
Ahmed Palmer
Excellent write-up, Hazel. Having visited the Perhentians three times over the past decade, I've observed some concerning changes in coral health, particularly around the more frequented snorkeling spots. The impact of increased tourism is evident, though still far less than other Southeast Asian destinations. For those planning a visit, I'd recommend exploring some of the lesser-known spots on the northern side of Perhentian Besar where the coral remains remarkably pristine. Also worth noting that visibility is significantly reduced during the monsoon season (October-March), so timing is crucial. My personal favorite spot remains Turtle Beach for its consistent turtle sightings and relatively healthy reef ecosystem.
Hazel Brooks
Thanks for adding that important context, Ahmed. I completely agree about the northern spots on Perhentian Besar - much less crowded and healthier reefs. I should have emphasized the seasonal considerations more in my post too.
summerclimber
OMG those underwater photos are STUNNING! 😍 The colors of the coral are unreal! Adding this to my bucket list immediately. Did you stay on the big island or small island? Trying to figure out which would be better for a first-timer!
journeymate
Not the author but I stayed on Perhentian Kecil (small island) last year and it was perfect for first-timers! More budget options and better for solo travelers or younger crowds. The big island is quieter and more upscale.
summerclimber
Thanks journeymate! Small island sounds perfect for me then. Can't wait!
oceanpro634
Great post! Did you encounter any sharks during your snorkeling trips? I'm heading there next month and wondering if I should book a guided tour or just rent gear and explore on my own.
Hazel Brooks
Hey oceanpro634! I saw a few blacktip reef sharks near Shark Point (appropriately named!) but they're completely harmless. If you're comfortable in the water, renting gear is fine for most spots, but I'd recommend a guided tour at least once - the locals know exactly where to find turtles and other marine life!
oceanpro634
Thanks Hazel! That's super helpful. Will definitely book one guided tour then explore on my own after that.
vacationdiver
Just got back from Perhentian last week! Totally agree about the public boat being an adventure - we got SOAKED but it was half the price of the speedboat. We stayed on Perhentian Besar at Tuna Bay and loved it, but spent days hopping over to Kecil for the vibe. The snorkeling at Shark Point was insane - saw 3 blacktip reef sharks! Pro tip for anyone going: bring enough cash for your entire stay. The ATMs are unreliable and many places don't take cards.
explorestar
Thanks for the cash tip! Definitely wouldn't have thought of that.
springking
Did you take any underwater photos? What camera did you use? The water clarity looks amazing!
Hazel Brooks
Yes! All underwater shots were with my action camera in a waterproof case. The visibility was incredible - often 15+ meters on calm days!
wintermood
Great post! I'm planning to visit in November - is that a good time or should I wait for a different season?
Hazel Brooks
November can be tricky as it's the start of monsoon season on the east coast. Many resorts close from November to February. March-October is best, with May-September having the calmest waters for snorkeling!
wintermood
Thanks for the heads up! I'll look at rescheduling for June instead.
Stephanie Romano
I took my family to Perhentian Kecil last summer and it was magical! The kids (8 and 10) had never snorkeled before, but by day two they were spotting clownfish and pointing out blue-spotted rays. We stayed at Senja Bay Resort which was perfect for us - basic but clean rooms and the restaurant deck literally hangs over the water. One tip: the boat transfer can be choppy, so if anyone gets seasick, take meds before boarding. Oh, and pack plenty of reef-safe sunscreen - we went through bottles of it with the kids spending hours in the water!
vacationdiver
How was the snorkeling for beginners? My kids have never tried it before.
Stephanie Romano
Perfect for beginners! There are shallow areas with calm water and reefs close to shore. My kids were nervous at first but totally comfortable by day 2. Bring your own snorkel gear though - the rental stuff wasn't great quality.
explorestar
Those coral formations look incredible! Perhentian has been on my list forever.